Looking for feedback on the JWest Eng G50 Coupler

UK Carrera · 03-10-2014, 10:41 AM

I'd be grateful if anyone that has fitted the JWest Eng G50 shift coupler could comment on the level of increase in noise, vibration and harshness.

I'm tempted to fit one for the claimed 'significant' improvement in shift quality but am wary of the compromise to be made in NVH.

Thanks!

chuckr · 03-10-2014, 11:30 AM

I've had this on my 88 911 for a couple of years now.... really makes a difference !!
best 20 bucks I've ever spent on my car, well worth the money. Not really a noticeable difference on noise or vibration. I did, however, have to put some loctite on my shifter knob,for it did loosen up after the coupler install. I have a MoMo shift knob by the way. There is some extra vibration.

UK Carrera · 03-11-2014, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckr

I've had this on my 88 911 for a couple of years now.... really makes a difference !!
best 20 bucks I've ever spent on my car, well worth the money. Not really a noticeable difference on noise or vibration. I did, however, have to put some loctite on my shifter knob,for it did loosen up after the coupler install. I have a MoMo shift knob by the way. There is some extra vibration.

Thanks Buddy - am going to order one.

Any fitting tips you can pass on?

Lyle O · Lyle O's Garage

I just did this conversion a couple of weeks ago, but because I live in Michigan, and we are experiencing the coming of the third ice age, I haven't driven it yet. But the process is very straightforward; instructions come with it that are very easy to follow. My observations: remove the whole shift coupler off of the transmission input shaft to do the replacement. There are two bolts and two rivets which hold the rubber coupler to the shift rod and the hard cast aluminum coupler. The two bolts come out easy; the rivets have to be drilled and punched out. Don't try to drill out the rivets while the coupler is still on the car; pretty much not possible. Drill out, then use a punch to push the rest of the way. Once that's done, you are supplied two bolts to replace the rivets when you re-assemble. Easy. It is a bit tight pulling the coupler from under the car (you have to work at the front of the transmission, sliding off the boot, which is a tough, then loosen the retaining bolt. It will slide forward and off). Be when you put it back together make sure the boot is properly retained, because it protects the shift linkage tunnel from road wash. I may be making this sound tougher than it is; you can do this is a couple of hours, max. Good luck!

Racerbvd · Racerbvd's Garage

I have been thinking out one myself for my 88 Targa, please share tips.

wildcat077 · wildcat077's Garage

A little tip ... make SURE you install those bolts with Loctite,the Blue 242 is sufficient as they loosened up on me during a track weekend ... couldn't figure out why my shifter had become sloppy until the car was home off the trailer.

Yes it is a great upgrade for the G50,although i since switched to a Hargett G50 shifter which is even more direct !

Cheers
Phil

gamin · 03-11-2014, 02:53 PM

I have the JWest G50 shifter upgrade installed in the 88 and really like it. Big difference. I didn't install the coupler upgrade however not wanting vibration. Appears the vibrations may be minimal judging from the comments. I think I might go for the coupler too. Any more comments?

chuckr · 03-12-2014, 06:59 AM

all good advice above.... I used a dremel to cut off the rivets, worked very well !
I also used the Loctite on the bolts for the coupler as well as the shift knob.

Lyle O · Lyle O's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by wildcat077

A little tip ... make SURE you install those bolts with Loctite,the Blue 242 is sufficient as they loosened up on me during a track weekend ... couldn't figure out why my shifter had become sloppy until the car was home off the trailer.

Yes it is a great upgrade for the G50,although i since switched to a Hargett G50 shifter which is even more direct !

Cheers
Phil

Crap, now I have to go back in there and re-do the bolts with Loctite...thanks for the heads up.

UK Carrera · 05-22-2014, 09:24 AM

I'm just in the process of removing my shift coupling.

For those that have done this job a question - how did you get the shift coupling past the shift rod? I've slid the coupling forward but can't work out how to get it past the shift rod. There just doesn't seem to be enough leeway in the rod.

TIA.

chuckr · 05-22-2014, 09:47 AM

If I remember right.... I did not remove the coupler, I just removed the bolts and cut off the rivets with my Dremel. I just got the rubber piece out and bolted the JWest piece in.... as best as I can remember, its been a while !

Lyle O · Lyle O's Garage

When I did mine, I installed the JWest short shifter also, so the long shift rod was de-coupled in front; that way there was room for the coupler (still attached to the long rod) at the shaft to slide forward. To be honest, I had more trouble with getting the boot off in that tight space than I did with getting the coupler off the output shaft. I think this method is still easier overall than trying to detach the coupler cushion while it is still in the vehicle using a Dremmel tool. I had to use a punch to push out the rivets with the assembly on my bench. I cannot imagine trying this with it still in the tunnel (my hat's off to you, chuckr!). Good luck.

UK Carrera · 05-23-2014, 09:44 AM

Managed to remove the coupling and install the new part.

According to the instructions the gap here between the bolt head and the coupling is correct. Anybody understand why it is arranged like this?

UK Carrera · 05-24-2014, 09:50 AM

I had an e-mail exchange with JWest - mine's as it should be.

Maxhouse97 · 11-19-2016, 03:26 PM

Holy crap I could not believe how much of a difference this made! All for $20! I suspect there was some misalignment issues as well that were fixed while installing, but this part really made my shifter feel like a new unit.

luigisdad · 03-01-2018, 01:24 PM

Hi
Still struggling to take off the rubber pad on the shift coupler. Did you guys drill out the rivet and punch it out before taking off the rubber pad?
These are my alternatives:

1. Heat up the rubber pad and pry it off. Then, cut off the rivet head with a Dremel and punch out the rest. Problem with this approach is possibly damaging the forged aluminum shift coupler. Just trying to pry it off with a screwdriver left some minor indentations in the aluminum surface.

2. Use the dremel to cut through the rubber and cut off the rivet head. Tried this and get smoking rubber. Do I just gut it through and keep cutting?

3. Alternative ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Roy

Lyle O · Lyle O's Garage

Just drill them (rivets) out; you don't have to mess with the rubber, it will just fall away.

luigisdad · 03-01-2018, 01:52 PM

Thank you very much for your reply. Sorry, for the stupid question: Without a drill press, how do you drill out the rivet? I understand that you're supposed to use a smaller drill bit.

Lyle O · Lyle O's Garage

I just stuck it in a vice. Use a bit that is slightly larger than the rivet hole. The metal of the rivet is not too thick.