Fuel hose: use of hydraulic hose spiral wrap

[jlex]

Bought Len Cummings' excellent fuel hose kit to replace the 30 year old hoses on my low mileage '88 last year. I got the flexible rubber version as I didn't want to wrestle around in the engine compartment any more than I had to.
Of course, the original porsche line running under the intake runners is metal and needs to be cut out to remove. Replacement of the three lines is straightforward (provided you have about 10 hrs. to spare).
Having opted for the all-rubber T hose, I was a bit concerned about it touching or vibrating against anything. My idea which I now pass along is to wrap all rubber sections with 5/8" hydraulic hose spiral wrap that I found on fleabay https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-8-Hydraulic-Hose-Spiral-Wrap-10ft-Wire-Protector-Cover-Guard-Cable-Organizer/382189426776?epid=2172900872&hash=item58fc43d858:g:zREAAOSw88NZ~LS-:sc:USPSFirstClass!16301!US!-1

The product put out by Temco appears to be good quality and is resistant to heat, oil and solvents... The wrapping adds only 4mm to the outside diameter of the hose and offered no impediment to installation. I ended up using it on all hose parts except for the J hose that's connected to the fuel pressure regulator. $10 will buy you 10 feet of this stuff which is way more than what you'll need. Had I bought the steel braided hose, I probably would have wrapped that as well as I've read that the steel braiding can saw through other items it touches if you're not careful.

Hey, maybe I have an anal-retentive personality and the wrap is overkill, but I feel it's a good alternative at least for the section that had the metal line.

Couple of tips to pass along: I've noticed in some postings that people are not replacing the inaccessible J hose that attaches to the pressure regulator. I was all set to wimp out when I came to that as well, but decided the solution was simply to disconnect and remove the regulator. Honestly, it only takes 5 minutes to disconnect it from the fuel rail and it's bracket. Well worth the effort.
Lastly, do not get anxious and crank the engine when finished. Before replacing the compressor, air box, duct work, etc, jumper the fuel pump to clear debris out of the line and to check for leaks while everything's still accessible. If you put it all together then start the engine, you'll power up the injectors and any dislodged dirt may flow into and clog an injector. Always clear the lines and rails after doing any fuel related work (including fuel filter replacement) unless you like to pull and clean injectors. I power up the pump using a momentary switch I've hooked up to a DME relay. I think you can also power the pump up at the fuse box. Have fun!

[KTL]

Nice job and agreed it's a very good idea to protect the rubber hose with that spiral wrap. Porsche chose to put similar wrap on one of the rubber sections (as pictured in your photo) so it's good insurance to do it elsewhere.

I also agree that the stainless braid hose should be used cautiously. Because you're exactly right that vibration makes that braiding cut into whatever it's touching.

[Pedro '84 Coupe]

Thanks for the tip. Just bought some. Car has been in the body shop since February and it has Len's fuel lines waiting for it if and when I ever get it back