Installed flywheel shims, iron-gasket, oil seal, new gland nut

[wkrtsm]

Recall, in an earlier post, I pulled the engine and ran it on a test stand to track down a huge oil leak. A leaking flywheel oil seal was the culprit.

Today, I installed a new Viton oil seal, along with the shims, a new iron-gasket, and new gland nut.

Below are some workflow images as I sequentially went through the install.

The image below shows the three shims I used, which were in use before I pulled the flywheel. They measured about 0.038" total thickness. The crankshaft end-play without shims and no iron-gasket was 0.040" and when adding the assumed 0.003" that the iron-gasket will add to the end play when installed, my projected total end-play was 0.043. A light coat of Royal Purple 20W50 was dabbed on to the front and back of each shim before setting into position. (by the way, these are VW 36 HP shims, not Porsche shims).



After the shims were installed, I installed the iron gasket, and then the Viton oil seal. I applied a thin coat of oil to the outer edge of the Viton seal, and the circular wall in the case that the seal glides into.

Next, I applied a light coat of STP oil treatment to the inner lip of the Viton seal, and then used the special tool (large washer) for tightening in an oil seal.



Before installing the flywheel, I also applied a light coat of STP to the outer surface of the flywheel hub which glides into the oil seal.



With the flywheel now sitting in place on the dowel rods over the iron gasket, I had to pack moly grease into the roller bearings inside the new OEM (German) gland nut. The pic below shows the roller bearings inside the gland nut.



Below is a pic of the new gland nut with moly grease packed into the roller bearings.



I planned on using ~350 foot-pounds of torque for the gland nut, and therefore used a Torque-Dude with a 9:1 gear ratio. The flywheel locking device is also shown. Some tech manuals call for gland nut torque of e.g. 235-270 foot pounds, while others call for e.g. 320-370, so I went with the larger range. Personally, I don't think the lower range is adequate. (Harry Pellow, the Maestro, used to call for 400, but some have said this high of torque sets you up for gland nut failure). However, if you have a heavy-duty gland nut, 400 foot-pounds is no problem, so the Maestro was never really wrong provided you use a heavy duty gland nut. I bought the German OEM nut, which can withstand much more torque than the quoted lower range, so ~350 won't be a problem. Besides, my own 912 manual calls for 320-370. (also, the flywheel clutch surface was reground using a two-step method, and the machine shop knew the delta between both surfaces that needed to be maintained, since they have done older Porsche flywheels).



With a 9:1 gear ratio of the torque dude, I used a setting of 38 foot-pounds on the torque wrench, which equates to 342 foot-pounds at the gland nut.



Below is the final installed flywheel.



Once the gland nut was torqued down, I had to check the final end-play. Below is a pic showing the dial indicator zeroed out.



The final end-play was 0.005", which is close enough to the range of 0.0051-0.0071"