Hubs n rotors
 

I have my hubs off of my car, and I was chcking the fit of my rotors on them. They dont seem to fit correctly. Its like the little ridge in the rotor is concentric. I have had all of these drilled out for the five lug, but the new studs and holes are not interfearing at all. These are the exact same rotors that came off of the car in the first place.
Is this the way they are supposed to fit? It would seem odd not to have it flush.
Summary: hubs drilled, rotors drilled, both straight and true. Wont seat flush.:confused:

Let em rip....

Sorry but I don't understand. Hubs and rotors seperate pieces and not fitting? The hubs and rotors are one piece.
Post a picture if possible.

I think Mike meant stub axles. Yes, the fit is tight. Sometimes you have to bolt up a wheel to get the rotor down flat. That's why it's no fum removing them. IIRC, I took the angle grinder to the edge of the hub and removed a tiny bit of the casting seam so the rotors fit more easily.

Nope, I ment the rear hubs, and rear rotors.
hub = http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_five_lug_conversion/gill17.jpg
rotors = http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_five_lug_conversion/914_five_lug_conversion_3.jpg
I have this set up, but the fit between the two leaves a 1/2 mm gap between the hub face, and rotor. These parts used to be on the car originaly, and I could have sworn that they fit correctly.

When you set the rotor on the hub, where does the interferance happen? on the studs? Or on the face of the hub and the inside face of the rotor?
(this is still hard to understand)

My mistake. Still, the rotors often have to removed forcibly because of the tight fit (after removing the flat head screws). Did you try mounting a wheel to press the rotor down? I have five 3/4" pipe nipples that I place on the studs and run the nuts down on them to seat the rotor.

URY, the interferance happens equally all around the perimeter of the hub. It presses against the ring inside the rotor.
Zeke, always trust a man with four 3/4 inch nipples;) I think that you got it. It is a very close interferance fit.

I guess I didn't get because I only have two nipples and thier only about 1/16" long. Of course when I rub them they get...

Mike:

On my new rotor, there are 2 threaded spots to put the rotor screws back in. These are used to help pop the rotor off when it's really tight This implys to me that the rotor will have a slight interference fit. I think that they are fine.

BTW - I've figured how to keep that caliper adjuster in - grease!

OK guys, time to get your minds out of the trunk (Is there a pun there? If there is, you're reaching. Hah!)

James, how do the holes for the flat head screws aid you in removing the rotor?

James, Thats what I said! Sheesh..... Hours of my life I wont get back;)

Zeke (4 nipples), the threaded holes are counter to the couter sunk holes for the screws to hold the rotor in place. The threaded ones have no hole in the hub. Therefore, you screw the screws into the rotor, and the screws push against the hub popping the rotor off.
Thanks guys!

outstanding mike, i've been messing with these dam cars for years and NEVER noticed the two xtra holes. i just had to go out and look, yep there they are. that one will wind up in the 700 tech tips that aa puts out.

kevin

That's five nipples. don't wnat to leave any studs w/o any nipples.:D :eek: :D

They are 7mmx1.0mm fine thread on the rotors.

Of course....I tried this today and the threads were gone....

Hammer and a screw driver! Gotta love that fine german engineering.


James

Just to update this thread:
My buddy that did the hubs figured that when he pressed the studs in it caused some material to be displaced outward on the five points adjacent to the studs.
I ground down said points, and they fit perfectly.
:)