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Redline linkage for dual Weber’s
Hello all! I haven’t been on here in a while, and couldn’t use my old username, did they purge? Anywho....I have created a new username, so here goes.
I have a 914 race car that I attempted SCCA Road Racing, had an engine fire on track a couple years ago and finally starting to put her back together in earnest. I’m finally installing new Weber carbs (40) with a Redline linkage kit. My question is, do I have this right? The directions seem like they have been photocopied for years and about as descriptive as the old B&W repair manuals you could buy at Autozone (Haynes). There is no binding, and I just made up where to put the return springs to assist. I will attach pictures. Now, on to the rewiring. I have to run all new wires that went aft of the firewall, whether they look toasty or not! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: chula vista ca usa
Posts: 5,718
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I would try to get the rods going from the cross bar down to the arm on the carb a bit straighter. As long as the play is smooth and free you might be okay. If I remember correctly back when I was racing the engine was required to have dual springs I.E. one on the main linkage shaft and one on each carb for safety reasons. You will need to make sure the throttle pedal hits its stop and the carbs are both fully wide open. Sometimes the linkage can pull the butterflies too far, not good to have.
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Interesting. Complete backwards from mine, which has the pull from the firewall (front of car)side.
That said my car runs nothing normal - downdraft fan, no pulleys, etc. It's a race car.
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Bone stock 1974 911S Targa. 1972 914/4 Race Car |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 903
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I just installed the same linkage on my 914 along with new 40 mm Weber’s I bought some years ago new in the box. As John Rogers mentioned I too found that adding a second spring helps for a smoother return on the throttle. Secondly, as he mentioned try to get the elbows closer to the carbs which makes for a smoother operation. On each end of the hex bar where the ball pivots into the Teflon socket I added some moly grease which keeps the wear down and makes for a smoother operation. Additionally, I also added from time to time a few drops of oil into the adjustable pivoting arms ( adjustable shafts at each end that connects to the throttle linkage) small ball and socket.
Prior to purchasing my new redline kit I had the Empi throttle linkage along with the Hpmx dual carbs that I had on another 914 for about 8 years. It was a great setup but when I disassembled it I found substantial wear in two of the locations I mentioned that you should keep lubed. The wear at the Teflon sockets was substantial. |
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Thank you for all your feedback!
Charles, my cable also feeds from firewall, and I like all your room you created by putting the cooling fan on top. Do you have an additional oil cooler? With all the advice I readjusted the linkage arms closer to the carbs. With that I also drilled a pilot hole in the Right carb arm fixture so the spring helps close the valves better. Previously, that spring was connected in such a way it travelled over-center and actually hindered the valves. I also moved the arms 60 more degrees so the heim joints could be as close to vertical as possible. Even though I had to do an almost complete disassembly the tedious work was worth it. The throttle has never felt smoother! I don’t think I can post video here, but here are the new pictures. The last picture is of the pilot hole and spring location. Thanks people! With more hard work I would love to fire her up by the end of October. ![]() ![]()
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| Tags |
| dual weber , redline linkage |