CLutch replacement

Flat4ever · 05-12-2003, 01:34 AM

Hi all,

After my problem of important vibrations (look HERE ) I removed gearbox yesterday to check the clutch.

Good idea, it is dead. Worn disc, rivets eated that made the flywheel very bad ... I will replace everything there.

But I have a question about the throw out bearing. There is important play between the actual (old) throw out bearing and the guide tube for clutch release sleeve (see pic #7).

Is this play normal or do you think that the guide tube need also to be replaced ?

Regards and thank you for all

green71 · 05-12-2003, 09:05 PM

Flat,

Sorry, I can't address the play between the bearing and the sleeve, but I would like to comment regarding the original vibration issue.

Look at the flywheel bolts. Are the heads scraped or sheared? If so, the flywheel is excessively worn and the bolt heads are contacting the metal (inner circle) surface of the clutch disk. This will definitely cause the symptoms you're describing. A new flywheel and bolts will be in order.

Wasn't sure if the flywheel was included when you said you would replace everything. Check that it's within acceptable spec regardless; this is a great time to replace the flywheel either way.

Good luck!

red-beard · red-beard's Garage

How much play? I don't think that you need to worry, as the only time there is rubbing is when the clutch is moved. Are you doing this with a new TO bearing or with the old one?

If you need one, I have several laying around.

James

Flat4ever · 05-13-2003, 01:13 AM

Thanks for your answers.

The disc is worn on the mechanism side, not on the flywheel side.

But there are many scratches on the flywheel and I will resurface it. I don't think that it needs to be replaced

The date on the mechanism is 1984 anf on the disc 1986 !

The play is with the old throw out bearing. Not pics at this time, there is a lot of grease to show anything.

But I will be happy if somebody can give me the nominal diameter of the part in red color on the pic above.

Best regards

74914 · 05-13-2003, 06:15 AM

I took measurements off my '70 and '74 guide tubes. At the base (where it looks like there's little or no wear) I measured 1.135" on both. On the '70, with high miles and wear, I measured 1.118" at the most worn point, whereas only 1.133" on the less worn '74. Most of the wear on my '70 seems to be in the ID of the TO bearing, so I'll probably reuse the guide tube but use the TOB from the '74. There's a grove inside it that's actually worn down in some places. "74 on left, '70 on right.

My clutch fork on the '70 is also worn, so I'll use the one from the '74.

In my case with the '70 I had several factors contributing to wear in the clutch mechanics and the shift linkage (see my previous posts going back 2 weeks or so), which James is helping me out with. When I get to the '74 I'll probably hit James up for a used clutch fork.
Ed

Flat4ever · 05-14-2003, 02:18 AM

Just to show you new pics...

... yesterday, when removing the fly wheel, I discovered that

- No O-ring
- No Felt Washer for Pilot Bearing
- Pilot bearing not in right place ...

red-beard · red-beard's Garage

When you have the flywheel surfaced, you have to place washers (shims) under the throwout arm pivot.

It's not in your diagram, but part 6 connects to it and part 5 of the is the bushing between the throwout arm and the pivot. You have to use a 14mm deep socket, shaved down a bit, to get it out.

James