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-   -   Chassis question (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=117948)

auh 07-07-2003 02:56 PM

Chassis question
 
How many people have bought the chassis strengthing kit for there car? How much did it cost? Was it worth it? Where did you get it from? How long did it take to put on? Yadda yadda?

Thanks

Adam

Special K 07-08-2003 02:45 PM

Well, I just hate to see a post go unanswered:).

I don't have any experience with the "chassis strengthening kits"(boxed trailing arms, etc.), but my '73 had a set of Brad Mayeur (?sp?) stiffeners installed on it (was going to be a V-8 conversion) when I purchased it, talk about 'heavy duty', those babies are close to bullet proof, literally! I believe that there's a web page that describes the entire installation, and by looking at mine, it looks very DIY if you've got a welder. As for the other 'stiffeners', Pelican sells them:


http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/9144/por_9144_chasis_main.htm

And it's good for everyone to support Wayne and the boys' at Pelican.

Okay, I found the site with the info about the Brad Mayeur kit installation. (at PP of course)

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_longitude_repl/914_longitude_repl.htm

914GT 07-08-2003 03:17 PM

Another possibility -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=37908&item=2543613 950
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=37908&item=2543613 950
Good pix of boxed trailing arms here - http://community.webshots.com/album/76254947qDIIoI

sean_V8_914 07-08-2003 10:50 PM

I put it on my 70 914. car became less rattly. the top used to squeek and rattle. All that went away. Install took me 32 hours of tinkering. I used a MIG with .030 wire and gas. 20/80 mix. I also put up cardboard to block the wind. The cleaning/grinding took the most time. Practice inverted welding before going for the gusto. I made some blobs. Higher heat, less wire and shorter stitches worked for me . I am not a real welder. I got tons of guidance from top notch welders. (my sister in law was US NAVY welder for 6 yrs and the neighbor fabricates heavy equipment) Dont forget to level, gig and measure your car before welding.
The web site posted by 914 GT has tons of great pics

Brant 07-09-2003 11:50 AM

sean what amperage machine did you use?

tia
brant

sean_V8_914 07-09-2003 11:55 AM

135 amp Miller running on a 20 amp 120 Volt house current plug. Machine Power was set to mid-range. You dont need much to get a good penetration on 16 gauge steel. find some scrap to test weld first.

Brant 07-09-2003 12:01 PM

sean thanks for the quick response..
I've been playing with a 130 miller, and really not happy with the penetration... but that may be a user error more than the machine's fault...

I'm a self taught beginner at welding, and perhaps should look for a mentor.

brant

Bob Bischoff 07-09-2003 12:12 PM

I'm using a Lincoln weld pak 135 mig. When I first got it I was using Flux core wire and was real dispointed in my welds. Broke down and spent the money for the Gas Kit. Best money I've spent on the car yet!

;) ;)

sean_V8_914 07-09-2003 12:30 PM

slow down the wire feed rate and turn up teh heat. I am also self taught but I have welded alot since then. My beads are picture perfect now. I first bought a book, used the book and the advice of San Diego welding supply to buy the Miller 135. Then I raided teh dumpster at teh scrap metal place for practice parts. Once I got the feel of the machine, burning through metal and blobing up angle iron, I started asking questions. The first day I got the machine, I spent ALL day welding scraps together, 12 plus hours of playing around. I also recomend an Auto darkening helmet. $150 bucks well spent. It alows you to see where you are before the arc strickes.

sean_V8_914 07-09-2003 12:31 PM

clean clean clean the metal and dont let the wind blow your shielding gas away

red-beard 07-09-2003 12:39 PM

And don't spill a large can of solvent just before you start welding.......

James


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