cooling flaps and engine tin

[jamcleod]

in examining my new purchase, i have noticed the cooling flaps and the engine tin over the alternator are missing. i would like opinions on how to handle this. the car is built for the track: 2.0 w/Webers but registered for the street as an antique. i have no track experience YET . i will be driving the car to the track and alot on the street. so, what are your opinions on the flaps and tin? i have spares and am capable of installing the spares.

[Alfred1]

Originally posted by jamcleod
so, what are your opinions on the flaps and tin? i have spares and am capable of installing the spares.

Install them, definitely.

[synthesis]

I am removing the forward shroud that covers the fan and alt. In fact I am removing the alt. altogether. The only tin we will have is the shroud that directs the airflow over the cylinders and of course the smaller cooling deflectors below and around the cylinders.

The motor will get pretty dirty but we only run sprint races now.

The flaps IMO are not necessary on a racecar. We run the motor for several minutes on the grid, do a warm up lap or 2 and then go like hell.

Also, my fan will be minus all but 12 blades.

The best part about building a racecar is taking stuff off.

[Zeke]

The flaps are important. You live in VA and it gets cold there. If it were a sunbelt state I would say you don't need the t-stat connected but you must have the oil cooler side flap if you run the stock cooler.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Yup. Synthesis, I would seriously consider adding the flaps back in again.

If you are getting your fan air from the front of the car (e.g., by way of the "sewer pipe"), cut off the parts of the engine tin that go over to the engine shelf. Plus the rubber seals. If you get your cooling air from the front of the car, you don't have to worry about re-ingesting warmed air.

--DD

[synthesis]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dave at Pelican Parts
[B]Yup. Synthesis, I would seriously consider adding the flaps back in again.

ok dave,

if the car was subject to extended idling and slow speeds, say < 30mph, I can see how warm air could be introduced into the cooling system.

but we average 60 => 80 mph with top speeds much greater. At those speeds I don't think there is any warm air going anywhere exept out the back end of the car.

Maybe someone in fluid dynamics could help figure this out. The only thing I can think of is if at hi speed, a low pressure area develops in front of the engine bay causing warm air to slow down in that area.

Barring that, lets hear from racers who have actually tried all this.


dr

[jamcleod]

i think the car is a little too much of a race car right now so i will do some work to make it more usable on the street.

time for an engine drop...

[Jake Raby]

synthesis...

What you need is the blower housing from a 1980-83 vanagon..... Trust me.

[JohnB]

Jim,

Did you say engine drop? Huh, huh? Put that on the Dorkiphus board and you'll be swamped with help.

But you knew that...

[jamcleod]

john, i don't know if i should post it there. it is so much simpler/faster that they will all want 914's

PS, drove the new car a couple of times this weekend. interesting

[JohnB]

Cool! Did you see my PM's to you? When are you going to have a "coming out" party for the new machine?

[jamcleod]

saw the PM's and thought i replied/tried to reply. guess i did it wrong. there is a gathering of the dorki this coming sat (3/20)morn near alexandria. if the SO releases me, i could go to that i posted pix in the dorki gallery.

[JohnB]

Not sure I can make it this Sat, got friends coming from out of town. Sure would like to, though. I'll check the gallery.