L-Jet questions

[E WA 914 2.0L]

So here is what's new with my 74 1.8 L-Jet, A fellow 914 guy,(Thanks Jeff), sent me a Air Flow Sensor (AFS) because my old AFS tested bad, I received it today and put it in, it starts it runs. ..After it gets all warmed up it runs like a top...it has good throttle response pulls good all through the RPM range..COOL..But here's the thing I'm puzzled about even though it's running great it hunts the idle between 200-800 RPM's until I remove the oil filler cap when I remove it, the idle smoothes out and sits at 1000 RPM's and the car seems to run perfect...What's up with that??
BTW: I have NO VACUUM LEAKS I have fixed them ALL.

[yousaidpoo]

check and make sure your oil breather is hooked up right. i think a haynes manual goes through that procedure.

[lmcchesney]

PM Dave Darling. He has a L-jet with tremendous experience.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Uhh.... Not really. I haven't owned an L-jet car for years now, and I didn't do very much to it when I did own it.

Clay Perrine, who sometimes shows up on this board, has lots of specific L-jet experience.

--DD

[E WA 914 2.0L]

Thanks anyways guys, I'm trying to get this car running good enough to sell it, then I can start on my 74 2.0L, it has carbs so I'll have new problems to deal with..

[lmcchesney]

Dave, I thought you did owned a 1.8 L-jet back when yourself, Ray Green and I were haveing the discussion regarding the differnece in the functions/properties of D-jet vs L-jet.

[coconut 321]

I also have a '74 1.8 F.I. which gave me fits with "hunting idle". It turned out the CHT(cylinder head temp. sensor) located on cyl.no.3 was failing, but not completely. So replacement solved my problem. Hope this helps. Al

[Clay Perrine]

Now that Dave has invoked my name.. I guess I have to chime in.

If you are having problems with the L-Jet on your car hunting at idle, and it goes away when you remove the oil cap, you have a rich running problem. You probably have the vacuum lines messed up. Check the vacuum diagram on our sponsor's web page, and make sure that everyting is hooked up correctly. If that still doesn't fix it, check the CHT and make sure it's in spec. The othher thing it could be is the AFM. Note that the AFM for a VW beetle will bolt on and work, but the calibration is all wrong.

Best bet.. find someone with a CO meter, and check the output. The CO output at idle warmed up should be 3 to 4%.