D1A3 - you said you got voltage on the starter solenoid but you didn't say if it would crank. So does the starter motor work? Also check fuse #9 (8A). That fuse supplies your oil pressure light, brake lights, and a few other things. Check to make sure you have 12V on that fuse with the ignition switch turned on.

Hi Guy,

All I can say is that it worked before this mess, but I don't know now... All I know, is when you turn the key, nothing happens. It's as if the battery is not in the car (of course it is though).

The fuse is a good place to start as I only verified that the fuses were OK (I went out and bought a multi-meter b/c of this issue). I will check those tonight. Do you really think that the #9 fuse woudl be needed to complete the ignition circuit though?

If this does not work, I will start posting pics of how my wiring is connected to be sure that I'm not missing something somewhere.

Thanks,
Jason

OK, I have checked the fuses again. Not sure which one under the dash is #9, but they all seem to be in good shape.

Since it was dark last night when I was checking, I noticed that when I turn on the parking lights, all of the gauge backlights come on, including the backlights on the console gauges. The clock in the center console is even keeping better time than my Swiss watch!

Out of curiosity, I pulled the hazard lights switch and the red GEN light blinks. Is this normal? I woudl think, like modern cars today, that the turn signal light indicator woudl flash.

Still napping in the garage...

I'm a little confused with your situation. You say you have 12V on your starter but doesn't sound like it cranks over. I don't know if you checked the wires at your battery terminal. That's a basic thing to check. You need to pull the terminals off and make sure they are shiny and no corrosion anywhere. Put a little grease on them. You are getting some voltage up to the dash at least, but high resistance on the batt terminals will allow small lights or voltmeter to come up, but the voltage will drop once a big load is turned on. A bad battery can do that too. It may have 12V but they can get resistive after a few years in the heat and not supply enough current. You need to verify you have a good solid battery and terminals, then work your way out from there.

Well, the GREMLINS are GONE!!!!!!!

After a long drawn out process, I root caused the problem to the socket that the ignition switch plugs into. Apparently, there was not good contact being made. I was sittign in the car tonight thinking about what the problem could be. My eyes kept drawing in on the ignition switch. I pulled everything out and the socket stood out for some reason... Not sure why, but I started looking at how the ignition switch mated to the socket and realized that it was not making a connection like it should. No idea why I did not look at this earlier, but sure enough, with a little tweaking, the Teener awoke from it's nap! Really strange, but explained things perfectly.

What a nice sound to hear her Purr again!

I'd like to thank each and everyone of you for taking the interest and time to try and help me through this. I really apprecaite it and knowing there is a great community out there willing to pitch in when another is having trouble. Ihope I can return the favor soem time.

All the best and Happy Motoring,
Jason (D1A3)