Fuel Line Replacement

[mrlith]

DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO REPLACE THE FUEL LINE-
ALL THE WAY FROM THE FUEL TANK TO THE FUEL PUMP,

WHERE DOES THE FUEL LINE MEET THE FUEL TANK?

AND IS IT EASY TO PULL IT TOTALLY OUT WITHOUT BREAKING IT?

ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED-

[John Rogers]

When I did the ones on our 73 and 74 cars I did the following: I bought the longest (5 ft I think) piece of 3/8 steel brake line from NAPA and cut off the flared ends. I had to pull the gas tank and then the lines that go into the tunnel are easily seen. I marked each old line so I knew which was which. The rubber grommet that they go through at the front bulkhead had to be pried out. I then unhooked the lines at the rear where they came through the firewall. Then I hooked a new steel line to an old line with a piece of tube and then worked it through the tunnel. After each line was done, before I hooked them up I flushed them with some carb cleaner and blew them out. I used new renforced FI hose (German) and replaced all the flex hoses and used new clamps and made sure the front ones were long enough so I could lift the gas tank out if I needed. If I remember correctly it took me about a whole Saturday afternoon to do it? Good luck

[914helo]

Our host has an article (look in the tech article section) about replacing the center tunnel fuel lines with pictures. I'll be doing the same project soon myself.
Kent

[skline]

Yup, John did it pretty much the same way I did. I only ran one new line though since I am running a V8 without the fuel injection. I pulled both lines out and then ran the new steel 3/8 brake line through the tunnel and out to the front. The bend was the hardest part. Good idea to clear the line out before installing the tank, it can pick up all kinds of stuff going throught the tunnel. Mine was much easier since the car was mostly taken apart anyway. It only took me about 20 minutes. I had the advantage of having the engine out of the car too which makes it a lot easier. The hood off makes the tank removal a piece of cake.

[lmcchesney]

Our host has a tech article on the web site that reviews most aspects. Additionally, Dave Darling has a tech article on the center tunnel that describes the relationship of the lines/wires/cables in the tunnel. You do not have to remove the front rubber gromet. After removing the tank, you can pass a stiff wire through the old lines and out the rear firewall. Remove the plastic lines. Place a 45°bend 3-4inches from the end of the new steel lines. Pass the new lines over the guide wire. Open the inspection hatch at the front of the center tunnel and help guide the new lines through the large gromet. Sometimes you need to increase the size of the gromet hole, with a hot screwdriver. The use of AN fittings at the rear firewall is problematic and expensive. Double clamped FI hose works well as an alternative.
Be careful and look for leaks after replacement.
Customary warning of dangers and lack of responsible for injuries/loss of course.
L. McC

[Zeke]

Actually, there are fittings for the flares if you care to keep it at one end or the other. They may be hard to find, though, but they are out there.

Be sure to deburr any cut and clean out shavings.