Only starts when being pulled...
 

Hey I have a problem starting my recently purchased 914. It's a 2.0L with high comp pistons and weber 44s. It cranks but won't start... kinda like it's flooded. I had a friend pull me with his SUV this weekend and it started when popping the clutch in 2nd but would not stay lit. It would stay on as long as I was being pulled but would die as soon as we came to a stop or I tried mashing the excellerator. Doesn't this indicated a fuel problem? What are some things to check first? BTW, it was bought longdistance with no PPI because I will be doing a conversion and the body had been restored (2.0L to be sold). However it was built for SCCA racing and I was assured the engine ran stong but leaks oil - It did sound healthy when being pulled. Any suggestions?

Doug C

Check the basics.

1) Do you have 12 volts at the battery?
2) Do you have 12 volts at the starter? Does the starter crank if you jump the solenoid?
2) Do you have spark at the spark plugs? If you eyeball the rotor, is the timing look right? Since the engine isn't running you can't check the timing the normal way.
3) Do you have fuel in the carbs? Do you see fuel squirt when you pump the throttle? The accelator pumps should show that your fuel bowls have fuel.
4) What is your fuel pressure? Did they convert the fuel pump to a carb-compatible pump or did they install at pressure regulator? I've seen many problems with the latter solution. The fuel pressure should be no more than 4 psi.

Tell us what you see and we can help you further isolate the problem.

sounds like a lack-of-spark situation. Timing or points

I forgot to mention the following: MSD ignition system, new optima battery, racing fuel cell w/compatible fuel pump. Which fuses or relays would the fuel pump be on (I don't recall hearing it when the key is on)?

Doug C

What fuel pump is it? The easiest hookup is to run a switched 12 volt to the new fuel pump for the carbs so there is 12 volts when the key is on/start position. This gets rid of the old FI fuel pump start circuit with the relay, etc which can be a pain. Is the pump in the front with the cell? If so you can run a switched 12 volt from one of the unused lugs in the fuse panel. If the pump is in the engine compt, run a temp wire from the 12 volt side of the coil to the pump and then try it. A permenate wire can be set up if you wish but on my race car the 12 volts for the rear mounted pump came from the coil and never caused any ignition problems. I would check the fuel pressure once this is straightened out as it should be 3 psi or so. Good luck.

It's a FACET electronic fuel pump, sitting just behind the fuel cell.

Doug c

Doug
Any chance you are in the N East? I'm interested in the 2.0 when you are ready to sell. I'm in no rush.
Thanks
Jim

I sent you a PM, Jim..

Doug C

If the pump is powered from the fuse panel, then you don't need any relays on the relay board for the car to run. It can be convenient to have the heater blower one and the rear defroster one for cars equipped with heaters and defrosters, but the car will run without.

I don't think either of the fuses are needed, but I am not sure about that. You still need the relay board to make the connections between the main wiring harness and the engine wiring harness, and to hook up the voltage regulator and alternator warning light to the charging system.

May be time for sanity checks. Check the valve adjustment and compression. Visually check for a spark (use a spare plug, it's easier). Check the fuel pressure to make sure the pump is actually pumping.

--DD

My Facet pump was very loud- like bbs rattling in a can (once the carbs were full). There was no doubt when it was running. I have since replaced with one from Pelican.

I'm guessing electrical.
Check all elec. connections, check the tranny ground strap, thern swap in a different coil. Either a new one or borrow a good used one.
That's what it sounds like to me, very weak spark.