d-jet

[norustscott]

Hello to all, I have a very nice 1973 2.0l in my garage after a 6 month search for the right car. now the fun begins. Details,
>ignition all new and adjusted
>valves adjusted
>idile is adjusted 950 and steady
> New sensors I and II with new throttle switch
>injectors old but clean and tested
The cold start valve is not working but after warm up all is well. I will have to fix this by fall.

The problem is that the car is running lean. It will back fire occasionally ( pop through the TB and buck/hesitate periodically @ constant throttle...say 60mph or 40mph or 80mph.. Working the throttle /switch will richen up the mixture and smooth out. Oil temperature is fine even on extreme 95 dgree days.

Next on my list is the fuel filter/pressure regulator and mps...any suggestions? How to adjust regulator? thanks to all Scott.

Ps.(Unrelated) I swear my master cylinder does not have a reset button! I had to disconnect one of the wires to stop the blinking. (read Madness)

[John Rogers]

Yes, some master cylinders do not have the reset on the pressure switch. As for the lean condition, did you get this checked with an air/fuel mixture meter or something similiar, since the back firing can be caused by an intake that is a little too tight. also check for vac leaks with the carb spray method to make sure you haven't adjusted to cover the leak. Good luck.

[JP Noonan]

John Rogers is absolutly right, check the valves, and if you took the intake tubes off to change the CHT sensor make sure you didn't catch a part of the tin under it when tightened back down BTDT.

Also, if the problem comes along with a lack of power check the wiring harness connections to the injectors, both at the injector and at the 3-prong grounding point on the block. Mine had the same problem and it was the injector connectors were corroded on two cylinders and firing intermittantly. Look at the spark plugs it will also give you a clue as to which cylinders are at fault, if it is in pairs that are across the engine from each other like 1+4 and 2+3 check out the FI trigger points.

Did you flow test the injectors with graduated cylinders or have them professionally done? If not then at least try "B-12 Chem tool" from a FLAPS, worked majic on my car, thanks to another 914 freak in the Redlands south of Miami (sorry, I'm horrible with names).

[norustscott]

thanks for the advise. With regards to the plugs...I had them out last night after the drive home from the office, 25miles highway. They where all very clean. almost too clean from my experienec. I would have thought they would have some soot or blackness on them.

The injectors where simply tested for operation ie. flowing/ check and atomization cone/ check. I did not test for volume.

The manifold leak is a good possibility. Although, at idle the engine is dead solid and is easily adjusted with the throttle body air screw or the ECU idle adjust. Up and down from the 900rpm setting. I suppose what we are taling about is a high speed vacuum leak? thanks again.