Rear suspension alignment (Shims?)

[D1A3]

I hit a dip ythe other day and the car sounded like it bottomoed out in the rear. The rear passenger camber is good, but driver side is out a bit. So, we need to adjust camber and ride height? I'm thinking springs? Shocks? Shims? All of the above? The front was cranked down almost all of the way by the PO, so I'm thinking the rear is probably lower than it really needs to be too.

Aside from springs and shocks, and after readign through the archives, it seems the only way to adjust the rear suspension is to add/remove shims. The front was easy enough (adjustment bolt). The question I have is if the only way to adjust ride height in the rear is with shims? If so, do you remove the center hex bolt and just loosen the outer ones and slide it in?

Yes, I found the post with the trace of a shim on graph paper. Is this what is needed? Is there any known source for these? I could not find them in Pelican's online catalog.

[SteveStromberg]

Last time I checked about two months ago the part # was still good from Porsche. The cost I recall was $23 each.

[Alfred1]

Engman makes alignment shims.

[D1A3]

Thanks for the heads up. What about springs, how can I tell if what I have is still good or if I need new ones? i guess I'm trying to figure out if I need new everuthing or jsut shims or something else.

Also, will the shims also help with my camber?

[Alfred1]

I think that there are tools to measure the amount of force it takes to compress a spring a given distance and to compare it to factory specs. My Auto Service Repair textbook only says:

"Be sure to mark spring top and bottom (if different). Also label which side of the vehicle it was removed from. If spring requires replacement (sagging, bent, broken), carefully relieve compressing tool tension. Remove spring and discard it."

Here's what the factory manual says

[chrisreale]

The only thing shims will do is add or subtract camber. If you bottomed out, it is probably your springs. Of course, now you are entering a difficult secision. Should you just replace the springs, or go ahead and do both springs and shocks. While you are in there, you might as well....and so it starts!

As posted above the shims are used for adjusting camber not for ride height. The rear ride height can only be adjusted by installing shocks with adjustable perches for the springs to sit on. Once you do that you can easily adjust ride height, corner balance and change out the springs for stiffer or softer ride.

[D1A3]

Thanks guys. Is it better to replace springs/shocks first or adjust Camber first?

I've been thinkign about the springs for a while, but not the shocks. Will have to research the archives for what is best bang for the buck.

Also, sent an email to ENGMAN about the SHIMS since I don't know how much or little I will need.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Changing the ride height will change the camber. So if you are intent on raising or lowering your car, then you will need to do an alignment afterward. So I'd work out the ride height issue first.

--DD

[cruiksdr]

Along this line....

How unusual is it to have the ride height uneven in the rear when shocks are set the same?? I don't think my frame is bent, but the car is definately not sitting level from side to side, and I've been trying to sort this out. Could this be cause by not having torsion bars set correctly/evenly?

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Yup, it could be. It could also be a bent (twisted) trailing arm. Or the fenders not lining up precisely. Make sure you measure "level" from something like a suspension pickup point; the fenders can vary enough to throw you off.

--DD

[cruiksdr]

Thanks Dave, again! I don't know how you find the time help us all out so much, but you are an invaluable resource. If you got $100 consult fee for every postng you've done, you could retire early Well, maybe if you moved off the west coast... anyway, you're greatly appreciated for all you do