2x34 ICT vs. 2x40 IDF Weber Carbs

[windlake]

I have a 1974 914-4 1.8L. Just drive the car in the summer, no racing, FI just died or needs a lot of work. Can't decide between the 34 ICT or the 40 IDF Weber Carbs. Don't need super performance, just touring. What's YOUR feelings on the subject?

[lapuwali]

Honestly, the EFI. It's going to give much better economy and drivability with an otherwise stock engine, and will no doubt cost no more and be no more trouble to fit than carbs. Carbs are rarely a fit and go proposal. What's wrong, exactly, with your FI? Have you been through Brad Anders' troubleshooting guide?

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Brad's site deals with the D-jetronic system from the 1.7 and 2.0 cars. The 1.8 used L-jetronic injection. There are tech articles over on http://www.type2.com that can help out; the later Buses used L-jet EFI.

Step 1--check the basic functioning of the engine. How's the valve adjustment? How's the compression pressure?
Step 2--check the ignition system very thoroughly. Condition of the points, plugs, wires, etc. Check dwell and timing. Make sure the centrifugal advance works smoothly, and the vacuum advance and retard do as well.
Step 3--eliminate all vacuum leaks. Including the seals in the oil cap and under the oil breather.
Step 4--check your fuel pressure. I forget the spec, but it should be listed somewhere on the site I referenced above.
Step 5--start checking individual injection pieces.

--DD

[jamcleod]

my winter project plans are to replace an engine that has carbs..... with an engine that will have D-jet

if you have to buy a set of carbs, wouldn't it be cheaper to use that money to fix the FI. i bet it would be ....

[Jake Raby]

If you are going to use carbs, go with an IDF Series Weber or a DRLA series Dellorto..

This is the ultimate
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/912e_kitcarlson.htm

[Scooter311]

Jake, do you hafta change from the FI cam to a carb-friendy one as well?

My 1.7 had 34ict's and was easy to work on, easy to balance, and I got respectable mileage (measured once during an hour trip at 65 mph to be 32-34mpg). I don't know if the PO put in a new cam or not, but the motor had been rebuilt, and howled nicely. It daintily sipped gas from a thimble, it seemed!

My 2056 has 40IDF's, and takes just a tad longer (2 more barrels) to balance the carbs, but it is still quite easy to do, I can even tweak them at the gas station, parking lot, etc. I also have done a buncha motorwork including a big cam as well - never had FI, however I can say that carbs are pretty decent if properly set up. Mileage? Not sure if I care anymore, but it's way better than my Grand Cherokee which averages 17-18mpg. I'd guesstimate, maybe, from 25-30 if I'm careful? I'm heavy footed with this new motor though, so it's cerainly questionable.
About switching cams - if it's necessary to replace your cam when going to carbs, personally I'd try to get my FI working properly first before tearing down a motor completely just to put carbs on it.

Just my limited 2 cents!

Cheers
Jeff

[Jake Raby]

Dual 2 barrels are easier to tune that the Kadron or ICT carbs....

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Once again--you do not have to change the cam to run carbs. They will run reasonably well with the stock cam. They won't be as easy to tune as they would be if you swapped the cam and bumped the compression, though. And you can make a pretty good amount of power by swapping the cam and bumping the compression, if you have the carbs.

If you leave the rest of the motor stock, I feel that the stock EFI is the way to go. (Unless you want to go to aftermarket EFI.) If you want to build a more aggressive motor, then carbs or aftermarket EFI are the way to go.

--DD

[Jake Raby]

An engine built FOR carbs will run better with Carbs. An engine built FOR EFI will run better with EFI.. Even engines with aftermarket FI run better with an engine purpose built for that.

In any instance, remove that stock cam at the first opportunity and toss it- There are much better options available..

[BigD9146gt]

It really comes down to what YOU want to do. I had an E cam with 40IDF webers (Euro 2.0 P&C, 2.0 counterweighted crank&rods, 1.8 heads w/stiffer springs) and LOVED the setup, great power too. BUT, every 3000 miles i changed the oil, and re-tuned the carbs. It gets alittle monotonous having to keep the carbs in sync, but the fuel economy wasn't all that bad. I was seeing low 30 mpg on the freeway cruzing. Just keep the carbs at 40 and you'll be fine. Its when you get bigger that you loose drivability.

[Acox914]

Originally posted by BigD9146gt Its when you get bigger that you loose drivability. [/B]

i have 44's . no loss of drivability, street drive every day. wicked power band. pulls all the way to redline. (euro P/C, 2.0 heads, big cam)

all depends on the cam too. i havent fiddled with my carbs since 2 years ago. runs great.