Accelerator cable
 

Hi All-
My accelerator cable is not moving freely (I think it is due to a recent problem with my master cylinder that put alot of fluid in the center tunnel). Anyway, I am ordering a new one (from some strange place- I think they are called "Duck" or some other type of waterfowl...).
ANYWAY - have any of you folks done this? Any tricks to lessen the bleeding? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hope everyones summer is going well!
Scott S

[This message has been edited by S Schroeder (edited 06-22-2000).]

[This message has been edited by S Schroeder (edited 06-29-2000).]

No bleeding necessary. Some swear words may be--particularly if you have a center console.

First, make sure the cable is the problem. Does the throttle lever (on the engine) move freely? How is the hinge in the base of the throttle pedal?

After you get the problem isolated to the cable (if that is indeed the problem), start by disconnecting the cable from the throttle lever, and threading it down through the right-side engine tin. Also disconnect it from the pedal assembly.

This last part is something of a PITA. I flop the pedal forward and pull the pushrod out of the back of it. I then pull out the floorboard that covers the pedal cluster. (Two or three Allen-head bolts.) Then I work the pushrod to where I can get to the cable end. You may need to remove the carpeting over the center tunnel to get decent access--and that means removing the center console if your car has one.

Loosen the jam nut at the end of the cable, then unscrew the cable end from its holder. You may need to pop the holder off of the throttle linkage's bellcrank to do that. I did, but I'm not sure it was necessary. Pull the old cable out from the back, then feed the new one in. Thread on the holder, put the specified length of thread sticking out, re-attatch, hook the other end of the cable up top the throttle lever, and that's it.

Then you get to put "everything else" back together again...

--DD

Several things to check and/or do: Since the brake fluid is pretty bad on paint, I would remove the pedal assy and really clean, then paint with POR-15 the whole pedal box area or it will deteriorate and rust quickly. Next I would replace the pedal bushings since they probably got soaked and will swell and since this area is open it is a good time to do it. Next I would try to vacuum or clean out the tunnel as best as possible from the front end openings. Small nuts and bolts and other little things seem to end up in the tunnel and will end up in the pedal assy under heavy braking. Finally when I replaced our accelerator cables, I just taped the front of the new one to the rear of the old one and pulled it through carefully. That was the easiest part of all I think. Good luck.

When working at the pedals I strongly recommend using a mirror, I did not and got my cable wrapped around the cable tube.
I then had to do the whole thing over, at least the part that hurts, crawling around on the floor.
The mirror lets you see into the tunnel
A good thing !

*Update*

So, I pulled out the old cable (tied string to it - thanks!)it had a good kink in it. Shoved that new sucker in there, hooked every thing up - STILL STICKY!
My pedal cluster "looks" brand new (no rust, very slight grime). I unhooked the cable and noticed that the accelerator arm was really sticky inside of the rubber bushing that it resides in. It took me forever, but I got the arm out without removing the pedal box (B**CH!!). I had to sand down 28 years of wear from the shaft and also really clean out the rubber bushing. It went back together pretty easy. WOW what a difference. Zero stickyness, great throttle response. The car is so much easier to drive/smoother. It even feels faster (I don't think any of the new parts were yellow...). I actually think I may be getting full throttle for the first time.
NOT a fun repair, but great end results!
-Scott S