Warning: 1.7L P/C and 2.0L crank
 

Well I thought I would just start a new topic and hope I reach everyone I've talked to about 1.7L pistons and cylinders combined with a 2.0L crank. Well it doesn't work without spacers.

The piston comes out of the bore about 1/2" (sorry I lent mt calipers to a freind) so to use them I'm now looking to some of the Type-IV performance shops in Cal. Fats Performance offers custom spacers but this may off set the saving of using 1.7L P/C's instead of the 2.0L barrels ($160 vs. $475).

Anyway just wanted to state the problem in case someone thought I (knew what I was talking about) had used this combination before. It sounded like it would work but like anything else you don't know until you try it.

Use type 1 90.5 B. for stoker pistons in type4 barrels no spacers needed.

The 2L crank is basiclly a 1.7/1.8 crank that Volkswagen reground the rod journals down to create the longer stroke. To compensate for the longer piston travel, the rods were shortened and the pin location on the piston was moved closer to the top.

Many of the larger smaller type I/IV engine piston/liner kits come in both a standard and stroker versions. I haven't heard whether or not these stroker kit would work or if they even come in sizes 94mm and above. Might be worth checking into.
Chris

Spacers will put the heads 1/2" farther away from the block. You'll start running into issues when you put the engine tin on, when you put the motor in the car, when you put the pushrods and pushrod tubes in... And so on.

Those are a lot of issues to solve for your $300 "savings".

Check into some 96mm pistons and cylinders. You'll get more displacement (2055cc) and they are often cheaper than the 94mm ones.

--DD

STEVESTROMBERG How do you deal with the wrist pin size difference from the type I to the type IV?

For 24mm wrist pin you have 2 ways to go,open up 22mm holes to 24.

The other way to go is to use 94mm waterboxer pistons which have the 24mm wristpin.

If you need 2.0 pistons Ihave N.O.S. NPR's $275.00