smog problems

[kena]

Does anyone know the easiest way to remove and repair a broken(rubber isolator) 3 legged pulley on a 2.0 liter 76 914?
Did 76 2.0 liter F.I. non-California engines use an EGR valve?
And lastly any tips on getting this motor thru Ca. smog test?

[djs]

As the owner of a '75 California car, I went through this same exercise in futility.

The 1975-76 2.0 California cars did NOT use an EGR valve, as far as I know, but the 1.8s did. My '76 donor car only had the air pump, no EGR. My 1.8 donor car only had EGR, no air pump.

I can't say what 49-state 2.0 cars used, but I think that the air pump on California cars served the purpose that EGR did on 1.8's. It may have had to do with the fact that the fuel injection systems were completely different between these the two engines.

I had to search far and wide, but finally found a used air pump drive pulley with the rubber drive intact at a Porsche wrecking yard up here in Hayward. I installed it, had my smog test (passed), and then removed it and the air pump for safe keeping until the next smog. I have done this twice now. I know it's not exactly legal, but these parts are no longer available new, so I'm not about to sacrifice them.

If you are looking for a used pump drive, it may be safe to say that all VW Type 4 engines with airpumps basically used the same drive part. That includes VW 411/412s and busses made from 1972-1979. Aircooled Vanagons from '80-83 equipped with air pumps (not in California) also used the Type 4 engine.

Dan

[djs]

I forgot to answer one of your questions.

Doing this job with the engine in the car is a real pain, but it can be done. It helps if you have a mirror on an extension so you can see how the rubber drive is attached. And you will probably need a universal joint adaptor for your socket.

To remove the drive, you slacken the air pump belt, remove the air pump (it gets in the way) and then reach down and unbolt three (3)6mm (10mm socket size) bolts that hold the drive to the fan housing. These are the same three bolts that hold the plastic screen on (if you still have one).

If your rubber drive has separated completely, you will then be able to remove the support frame.

Next, to remove the part that is attached to the crankshaft fan hub, you will need to put your car in gear to prevent the engine from turning. Then, you can unbolt the three 8mm (13mm socket size) bolts that attach the cooling fan to the crankshaft.

Remove the broken rubber drive and replace the bolts that secure the fan. The fan will more or less stay in place as the alternator belt exerts tension on it.

Unless you have to get the car smogged right away, you can run without the airpump and support pulley until you find a replacement.

Dan

[SteveStromberg]

I am looking To purchase car's that will not pass California Smog Test. Steve

[Cal914]

I have a 76 2.0 and had similar problems. The 49 state cars did not have an egr, catalytic converter or smog pipes. There are air injection pipes and a check valve that come off the smog pump which can clog and cause problems. Also make sure the timming is set at 27 degrees at 3500 RPM, it's critical and often overlooked. I have all the smog parts, except the pump if you know anyone interested. If you have other questions i can email my phone number. Good luck. Joe

[kena]

Originally posted by djs:
As the owner of a '75 California car, I went through this same exercise in futility.

The 1975-76 2.0 California cars did NOT use an EGR valve, as far as I know, but the 1.8s did. My '76 donor car only had the air pump, no EGR. My 1.8 donor car only had EGR, no air pump.

I can't say what 49-state 2.0 cars used, but I think that the air pump on California cars served the purpose that EGR did on 1.8's. It may have had to do with the fact that the fuel injection systems were completely different between these the two engines.

I had to search far and wide, but finally found a used air pump drive pulley with the rubber drive intact at a Porsche wrecking yard up here in Hayward. I installed it, had my smog test (passed), and then removed it and the air pump for safe keeping until the next smog. I have done this twice now. I know it's not exactly legal, but these parts are no longer available new, so I'm not about to sacrifice them.

If you are looking for a used pump drive, it may be safe to say that all VW Type 4 engines with airpumps basically used the same drive part. That includes VW 411/412s and busses made from 1972-1979. Aircooled Vanagons from '80-83 equipped with air pumps (not in California) also used the Type 4 engine.

Dan

Thanks for the info. I think I better get my air pump hooked up before trying for smog cert. I think I found a parts source for the pulley.

[kena]

[QUOTE]

Thanks for your response. Where exactly is the check valve located? Also how much do you want for the pulley?