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Gee I am about ready to beat my 914 in with a 10lb Sledge Hammer!! I have Gone as far as putting rtv all over the copper rings and lock nuts w/lock washers on. My problem is that damn thing starts leaking and i have to replace the copper rings all the time to stop it. It is really starting to bug me bad (as if you couldn't tell) I dont abuse the car and its a daily driver. It allways rolls into the driveway just fine. when i get up in the morning to take off... POP POP POP POP!! anyone have any suggestions????? I swear that im about half tempted to hype up a type one and throw it in there.
------------------ Sweet Blue 72' 914 Check it out at http://www.geocities.com/eat_um_up/914.html |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: chula vista ca usa
Posts: 5,716
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Couple of things to try. First: retorque the nuts after the engine has gotten hot. Second: make sure the connections at the heads are tightened first, then the rest of the flanges. Third: make sure the nuts are not bottoming out on the threads of the studs and make sure the studs are not pulling out of the heads. Good luck.
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Also, try flat filing the heat exchanger flanges so they are dead flat. They tend to warp and distort with use and age. Watch the nuts like John said, so they don't run out of thread. I tighten the heat exchangers to the heads first, then give them a couple of good smacks with a rubber mallet to make sure they are not hung up. Then re-tighten the flange nuts,as it is tough to get the heat exchangers to seat just right.
Geoff ------------------ 76 914 2.0L |
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Try using the 911 barrel nuts they are much easier to get the joint to seal tight. Steve
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NEVER use the copper exhaust nuts for type I engines! At least for me these siezed and ended up breaking four studs trying to remove them. The original shouldered nuts with inserts in them seem to be the best at not vibrating loose.
The three things I have found important to sealing the exhaust is: (1) Make sure the old copper gasket have been removed. Once the exhaust leaks they turn black and can be very hard to see. (2) Tighten each bank evenly (this is a big one). If the pipes go in cocked, one side will dig into the copper gasket and all four nuts will torque down leaving the other side to leak within a day. (3) The gasket need to be seated perfectly into their recesses, if not they get bent and distorted causing a leak in a short period also. The next thing I am trying is using the allen head nuts from the 911 exhaust system. I don't have the engine back in the car yet so I don't have a comment on whether they come loose, but they did make it extremely easy to tighten. Good luck and hang in there, the car's fun aspects far exceed the querks. ------------------ Chris 75 914 2.0L [This message has been edited by roadtrp204 (edited 06-13-2001).] |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Stuttgart FRG
Posts: 2,307
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Hello
Do you have the exhaust hanged up to the trany ? There is a bow tie bar to support the rearend. Grüsse |
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Quote:
------------------ Sweet Blue 72' 914 Check it out at http://www.geocities.com/eat_um_up/914.html |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Stuttgart FRG
Posts: 2,307
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Hello
A loose muffler has a long lever causing to bend the complete head under heat distorting the cooper rings and will start blowing gases to the rear while the front shows a flatter preesed CU ring. My expierience is that 10% from the uS cars have a missing and 20 a defective ( rustet away ) muffler support bow. The next time you look at your old CU rings and try to "read" them. I do also recomend to heat up the used rings to deep red and shock them in water. They will get thicker and a bit softer. This is the only way to reuse them. Grüsse |
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