Fuel Filter Odyssey

[R_Davis]

Hi all,

I am posting this so that I can get some tips, sympathy and also to let you all know that there is Hell to pay for owning one of these little cars when they’re down. But all the trouble is worth the fun when driving them.

It all started as a little drip from my Fuel filter.

No problem, got my Rhino ramps out and raised the car. Put down a furniture blanket and crawled underneath. There was a little drip from the OUT end of the filter. So I diddled with it to get the clamp screw into a working position and all Hell broke loose. The rubber hose attached turned to mush and I had an Exxon Valdese Class EPA Fuel spill happening. I grabbed a one gallon galvanized bucket and began collecting the spill. I took some hemostats and clamped of the wrong end! Fuel spill continued. I was now covered in Gasoline, and it was running out of the donut like a fountain. Since I had just topped off the tank, I had a potential 16.4 gallons of gas coming out. I frantically grabbed another pair of hemostats and found that by cutting of the supply end of the fuel line and securing the crimp with a pair of vise-grips … all was well.

The ¼ “ fuel line had disintegrated

I drove to AutoZone and bought some new Fuel line and an in-line fuel filter.

Came home and in the dark (with the help of an LED light stick) I managed to get everything back together. I put all the lights and tools away. Nice. Done. Right?

Nope. Saw a leak on the top end of the fuel line. Hemostated it to stop the bleeding. Fuel leak is stopped for now. Gotta crawl back underneath tomorrow and replace that short line.

I had to throw my T and shirt in the trash. I have my jeans and jacket in the washing machine. Took a shower with Go-Jo and I still smell like fuel. Sheesh!

Q: What is the easiest or only way to stop fuel flowing from the tank?

BTW … salvaged the fuel I collected and put it in the can for the Briggs & Stratton lawn Mower. They're easier to maintain and more forgiving.

And to add insult to injury, My little car is sitting in the driveway on the ramps … and it just began to rain. Is there no justice?

Personally, I think it’s worth all the trouble …. I think.

Cheers,

Rick

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The easiest way to stop fuel from flowing from the tank is to take it out of the tank...

All of the rubber fuel lines should be replaced every other year or so. Imagine that had happened on top of the motor, or next to the (potentially very hot!) exhaust pipes. Not pretty.

Don't forget the hoses under the fuel tank, too!

--DD

[sww914]

I've been there.

[sreddock]

If the pipe is intact but disconnected the best way to plug the lines is a 8mm bolt with the regular jubilee clip. This way you won't damage the pipe with a clamp. If the pipe is split then some sort of clamp/vise grips as you used is the best.

Cheers, Steve

[rfuerst911sc]

Has anyone ever installed a fuel shutoff on the tank outlet? I have my tank out of the car right now and I'm pondering brazing onto the " nipple " coming out of the tank a threaded male fitting and screwing onto that fitting a shutoff valve. I'm thinking there must be small shut off valves available? Then anytime any maint. is involved just reach up and turn the valve and now you can safely replace the filter, the rubber lines even the fuel pump without becoming a EPA claen up site. Just a thought.

[sreddock]

You can get vacuum operated petcocks for motorbikes. There wouldn't even need to be any reaching and switching. You could pull the lines off at will knowing that there wouldn't me more than the fuel stored in the lines and filter to spill. Also helps with safety in a fire - stop the engine and the fuel should stop.

I don't know if technology has moved on, but the vacuum operated cocks on the bikes were renowned for leaving you stranded. But perhaps with 5 yearly replacement they would be fine. It was only the old bikes that people seemed to hate them on.

Cheers, Steve

[jhora]

I have actually used a spare electric fuel pump like a Facet with a hose down the tank and drained the fuel out...takes time depending on fuel load...easy though....pumped it right into a fuel dump can...

[bare 1]

just a thought---- Brazing or any other flame on a fuel tank is a quick ticket to the emergency ward as a general rule unless you put some serious forthought into the action. That tank has to be CLEAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!. or filled with some sortof inert gas such as carbon dioxide. Usually not something harry homeowner is set up for.

[R_Davis]

Thanks for all the help, Guys.

I agree with Dave that the best way to stop fuel from running out of the tank is to drain the fuel.

OK ... I am draining the last 2-3 gallons of fuel thanks to a Craft Multi Use Pump. I'm transferring the fuel to my Chevy P/U.

I'm gonna go ahead and pull the tank and replace God knows what kind of hose. Like every other hose on my little car, they're also 36 years old. It will also give me a chance to clean out that area underneath and maybe I'll find a prize ... like a lost socket or screwdriver or maybe even Jimmy Hoffa!

Should I wash out the tank while it's out? And with what? probably wouldn't hurt and it would be a very easy time to do it?

You know ... For every ONE answer, there are TWO new questions. It's like a Chinese Puzzle!

I noticed that my fuel pump appears to just be floating ( not bolted or clamped down ) It has two rubber BUMPERS on it that to me appear to absorb the shock it would encounter by just Dangling down from the main fuel line. If that was the way this was engineered, I don't particularly like that arrangement. ???

AND ... While I am replacing stuff, should I move the Fuel Filter to the engine compartment?

All suggestions and experience appreciated,

Rick

[R_Davis]

rfuerst911sc,

I'm thinking the same thing after this adventure. There are few things scarier than a T-Bone, Head On or a Fuel Fire in these little cars.

A small valve accessible from the front end to shut off the fuel would be worthy of consideration and ponder.

Because of the orientation of the fuel line, the spigot at the top would have to be of a flexible type, kinda like a 'Snake' or a telescope's adjustment knob.

I'm thinking. I never want to go through this crap again.

Great idea.

Rick

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by R_Davis

T
I noticed that my fuel pump appears to just be floating ( not bolted or clamped down ) It has two rubber BUMPERS on it that to me appear to absorb the shock it would encounter by just Dangling down from the main fuel line. If that was the way this was engineered, I don't particularly like that arrangement. ???

The "bumpers" are "isolators", and they should have a stud sticking out of each end. Chances are pretty good that you'll find the studs bolted through the "engine shelf" on the right-hand side of the engine bay, with the wide disks matching the diameter of the "bumpers" on the underside.

Click me to see it in the catalog!

--DD

[R_Davis]

Ok ...

I replaced all the clamps and rubber fuel connectors today in the rain and 47 degree weather.

Fuel line problems have moved to the top of my list as far as Pains in the you-know-what.

I ruined another shirt and my jeans and jacket are being washed outside in a rain drizzle. Got gasoline in my eyes and had to use the kitchen Moen sprayer to wash them out. Really, it was like trying to pack up a Three Ring Circus. The wife is complaining about the smell in the house ... Too bad. I got a shower in Go-Jo, put on fresh clothes and am typing with an ice cold YUENGLING to my right. God is good. Life is good.

Ok. My fuel pump is DANGLING like Forest Gump. There is nothing to hang it onto, place it in, or bolt it to.

Dave, I looked everywhere. I know that area intimately. However; there is an empty screw hole on the bottom shelf where there may have been a metal plate. But I think that the Fuel Pump 'INSULATORS" may need to touch the top of the engine cover.

Sheesh, I don't know ... but that fuel pump can't just hang there unattached. I'm gonna have to make a hanger or bracket.

Cheers,

Rick

P.S. There's a trick to installing a fuel filter. My car has 50K original miles and after ripping it open and examining the paper, Mine looked fine.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The isolators have a stud out the top and one out the bottom. There should be one on each end of the clamp that holds the pump. So look for two holes about 2.5" apart somewhere on the engine shelf. The pump hangs down below the shelf.

--DD

[R_Davis]

Thank God that my Fuel Leak and Fuel Pump Saga has ended.

Dave, There were no holes in the engine shelf and there were no studs coming out of the other end of the Insulators opposite the side where they were attached to the clamp.

I appears that this pump was not the correct one or the car was built incorrectly. Go Figure.?!

I did see two holes that matched up on the underneath bottom of what is called the "Hell Hole". But they were plugged with rubber/plactic inserts.

I rigged a very good 'hanger' for the pump by drilling a 3/16" hole in the shelf, putting a threaded eye hook through the hole and used 2 large cable ties to snug the pump's insulators tight against the underside of the shelf. It looks clean, tight and all of the clamp screws fell right into the correct orientation for getting to their screws.

I put a gallon of fuel in the tank and voile', no leaks and the car is running noticeably better & stronger. I think (now know) that the fuel lines have been kinked for quite a while, thus restricting the fuel flow. And the Pump has been hanging there maybe forever.

Thanks to everyone for all the help. I have been working on this for the past 2-3 days. Now I know a little more about this little car.

Rick