a 6 engine mounts for a 914-4??

[Arizona_928]

is there any really good ones around? ones to avoid? anything cheaper then the $500 one i saw on evilBay??

[rfuerst911sc]

I am not a expert but I am doing a /6 conversion so I'll give you my thoughts for what their worth. First off I am installing a stock 3.0 with carbs so when I was doing my research this engine fell into the higher hp category. From the research I did most guys said to stay away from the " quick 6 bar " type of mount which is the type that uses the stock four engine mounting points on the chassis. I ended up useing the Rich Johnson mount which installs on the firewall. Yes it's pricey but it is a quality piece and I'm pretty sure my engine will stay where it's supposed to with this mount. If you are using a lower hp engine like a stock 2.0 maybe you can use the stick type mount. At the very least if I were to use one I think I would do some strengthening to it as they seem to be a little " flexible ". Good luck with your choice.

[Scrappy]

Spend the money for the Rich Johnson mount .... as close to factory you're gonna get. The only problem with it is you have to install the front sheet metal after installing the engine. Tin won't clear the mount when installing. (my experience ... yours may differ).

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Pelican also carries the Rich Johnson mount. Good stuff; I would not consider the "quick six" type of mount that replaces the motor mount bar.

--DD

[SirAndy]

Originally Posted by Dave at Pelican Parts

Pelican also carries the Rich Johnson mount. Good stuff; I would not consider the "quick six" type of mount that replaces the motor mount bar.

--DD

i agree with DD!

RJ mount is the way to go ...
Andy


welded in:


painted:


moneyshot:

[sww914]

I've been maintaining a 914-6 racecar with a 2.2S for a couple of years and it has a quick 6 mount. We haven't experienced any problems with it but it is in the way a little bit sometimes. Just to play the devil's advocate, what's so wrong with them? I've seen plenty of A/M parts that I hate but this isn't one of them.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

There are some lovely-looking tubular steel ones. They act as a big spring, and the engine bounces up and down. The mount will then fatigue and fail, leaving your motor dragging...

There are ones that look like they are made out of 75 lbs of square tubing and plate. They are heavy and ugly, and need to be chopped up to fit the side-shift linkage.

Not sure about the others.

The RJ mount is similar to the way the factory mounted the engine, but stronger. Best there is IMHO.

--DD

[PCA7GGR]

A few years back, I shared a 2.4S 6 racecar with a quick6 style mount (not sure of origin). Mount broke at a Crows Landing event (alright, how many old timers remember that TT/DE site?), we welded it Saturday night and it broke again Sunday (during my partner's timed run - no timed runs for me). Replaced the cross bar mount with a factory one and had no problems after the change out.

+1 on Rich's mount - factory ones are getting hard to find and a bit pricy.

[Tobra]

I presume you read this
http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914-6_construction_kit/914-6_info_guide.htm

James Montebello passed away, so the link to him is probably no good anymore

[SirAndy]

trekkors "quick six" mount broke during autocross. the welds came apart ...

[sww914]

Well, I guess I know what's wrong with them now, they break!

[trekkor]

My Patrick chromemoly tubular mount did break, yes.

I had it tig welded and it is fine now.
The welder said, "if that breaks, I don't want to be there".

At this point, I feel it's the strongest part on my entire car!

The original welds were awful.

As far as the motor falling out or dragging...Nope, can't happen.

here's some pictures:









The penetration of the welds were awful and service from the maufacturer was not satisfying at all.


KT

[trekkor]

Here's the repair shots.
Quality welding.
It's survived about 40 track days now and about 20 a/x's.

I had it welded about two years ago or so:





Can I recommend the part? I don't know

Now that mine is repaired, I love it.
Super easy to install the motor.


KT

[trekkor]

As for the motor 'falling out'. Here's why that can't happen.

Mine broke as bad as it can. The mount plate that attaches to the engine itself seperated fron the cradle on the bar. The motor drops about 1" and pivots foward slightly. The mount plate bolts catch on the cradle and that's it.

The car was still drivable.







KT

[John Rogers]

As Dave said any mount that mounts the engine and then goes clear out to the original stock pads will flex and the engine will bouce. While a good idea it proved to be problematic as the engine is heavier and the tube was not as stiff as the forged original 4 mount. Patrick now makes a bulkhead mount that uses a mount similar to the stock piece that mounts to the engine and a short tude section with dual feet that attach to the bulkhead where there are two raised metal sections. This uses bushings to capture some vibration and a big advantage is the engine and trans can be lowered at the rear which makes trans swaps super easy. Quite a few vintage 2L class race cars (912s and 914s) that have been converted to sixes use them.

[trekkor]

will flex and the engine will bouce

If it flexes, then the stock motor mounts are too.
I'd love to see how much weight it actually takes to bend one of these pieces.

Mine was bad welds... the pictures are clear.


KT

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The original 914-4 mount is much more solid than many or most of the aftermarket bar mounts, and is supporting something like a couple of hundred pounds less weight.

There are other cases of the bar mounts failing; I know of no cases of the Rich Johnson mount failing.

--DD

[Arizona_928]

lol.. and i was hooked after the 3rd reply