Installation of driving lights in '75 bumpers; voltage issues

[PeterB]

I'd like to add some more high beam to my '75 914 (yes, I already have very carefully adjusted 80w/100w's in the primary headlights) -- anyone have any comments on

-- physicall installation of rectangular driving lights in the factory spaces in the black rubber bumpers
-- electrical installation, including possible demand problems (my voltage already reads a bit low when lights are on, I regret to say, though a normal -- ? -- 13.7 or so when lights are off)
-- should I/ can I tie the accessory lights into the high beam circuit, so that they automatically come on with the highs (hey, gotta dim 'em anyway, if anyone else is around), or would that create unanticipated problems?
--recommendations regarding specific products or alternatives for this application

Thanks for any thoughts,

Peter

[JP Noonan]

It's been my experience that unless all the connections between the voltage gauge and the batt are new, or at least very clean, the gauge isn't that accurate. So make sure to messure the voltage at the batt. with a stand alone meter. Add to that the 914 only has a 45 amp (I think) alternator. So if power is a problem then try having the alt rebuilt to a higher amperage, of coarse then it will cause a greater drain on the motor.

Before (and in preperation for) putting in the fog lights I would go to a car stereo store and buy some fairly thick wire (6-8 gauge) a large fuse holder (AGC 40-50 amp, the lage glass types, about 1/4" round) and some Bosch 30 amp DPDT relays. Run the wire right off the battery (fuse it as close to the batt. as possible and use rubber gromets whenever it goes through metal) and all the way to the front trunk. Wire your factory lights up to this wire using the relays. Ask the car stereo place, they should help with a basic wire diagram, if not go to the next store down the street. You should see an increase in the light from the headlights (so I'm told, I don't guarantee it). A company called "Jacobs Electronics" sells a similar kit that claims 30% more light (larger wire, less resistence, less loss to heat, more light) from factory bulbs.

Now that the wire is there you can tap off of it for the fog lights. Use some more relays so that the power to the lights dosen't go through the dashboard switch. The dashboard switch should just be a trigger for the relay.

Buy a bigger battery. I like the "Optima" brand mostly because it is a dry cell completely sealed battery. It can be placed anywhere, even upside down, and not leak (no more battery tray rot). I had mine in my F-150 with a 351W cid motor (higher compresion, 14.6 E.T. 1/4 mile, but I digress) and had no problems starting it, even after blasting the radio or driving with head lights on. They do cost $160 so maybe just buy a higher CCA battery with a rain cover.

As for mounting the lights, take the bumper of (two 17mm or 19mm bolts that come up through two holes in the bottom to attach the bumper to the bump shocks) and you will see rectangular cut outs in the metal substructure of the bumper. I have factory fog lights on my '75, so if you can't figure out a way to mount them, tell me and I'll take off my bumper and have a look. The factory install is very clean looking so don't start hacking away if your not sure.

Just remember if you tie into the factory switches to use relays or in may literally melt the switch. It may be easier to use the factory type Hella fog light switch. There is already a hole in the dash (behind the stick-on basket weave stuff) and it matches the other switches. Hella still makes the switch I think, or at least they are easy to find.

[Ascaris]

Building on JP's reply, my bumper is already off. If you need some advice on mounting possibilites before you pull yours, let me know.