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ok... piss me off and call me stranded.
ugh.. Same problem, but this time it wasn't solved with jumper cables... I think I'm gonna put the hot start relay back on(I still have it). Anybody have the wiring diagram? Plus, what exactly is it that doesn't work when its hot? is the solenoid taking some time off or some relay that just can't close the door or is the ignition switch on strike? Thanks for puttin up with my ranting and raving. |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Jacksonville, FL., USA
Posts: 583
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Quote:
Philinjax |
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I was told it was the plunger of the solenoid 'binding'. Thats why the proverbial 'TAP' of the hammer( or whatever else you could throw at it cause your pissed) would 'fix' it.
------------------ CWP/VIR 72 914 L20E in rusto. 73 914 L20E 2.0L in resto. a914lover73@hotmail.com |
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OK, This is it. I've tested, checked, observed, and interacted. (I was stranded today and had to use my jumper cables to jump power from Pos to the input of the solenoid.) when I got home, it didn't start, so I ran and got my multimeter. It checks out at exactly 12.0V from the ignition wire when the key is turned and it still doesn't start with this. I'm going to put the hot start relay on, but sounds like the freezing thing is happening with the solenoid, which makes sense, but how would I remedy that? New Starter?
BTW, Thank you for the offer, but unfortunately I don't have access to a fax anywhere. You don't possibly have a scanner do ya? or know anywhere else I could get the diagram? |
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Lompoc, Ca. 93436
Posts: 178
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My Corvette had the same problem, and my 914 has it now. The solenoid spring expands when real hot and binds. I replaced the spring and installed a heat gaurd in the Vette, and that worked for a while. I solved it permanently by installing a hi-torque, lightweight gear reduction starter. I will put one in the 914 when I have enough money saved.
Bee Jay a picture of my car http://www.pelicanparts.com/swapmeet_pics/Santa_Barbara_01/Pic57.jpg |
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been lookin all over, I can't find a stinkin thing on how to wire the hot start relay. hmm perhaps I'll just use my ohmmeter and start guessing.. I recall there was a little schematic on the side. Still if anybody has any hard info, I'd love it. Thanks.
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So I installed the hot start relay thing. Looks like it works.. hopefully it will continue. Thanks guys for all yer help.
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Boulder, CO, USA
Posts: 392
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If you still have trouble email me at benihas@inphase-tech.com and maybe I can help. I had a similar problem that busted my balls for 2 years as I gradually replaced every component of my starter system, so maybe I could share what I learned.
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RETIRED
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http://www.kennedyeng.com/start.htm
These guys sell NEW...not remanufactured hi torque starters...depending on the application $180-$225..... |
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Boulder, CO, USA
Posts: 392
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Beware of hi-torque starters. I know this won't be a universal experience, but thought I'd add it. In my effort to repair my starter system I got a new high-torque starter. there were no lock washers or loc-tite or anything that kept the mounting flange bolts (those holding the end of the starter to its body) from coming loose, so of course they did. It took no time to chew off half the teeth on my flywheel, requiring its replacement. I found the stock starter to be fine, even for my 2.4L 4-cyl engine after that.
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Just an added FYI, as others have said, a fairly reliable way to get the starter to work when it won't engage is to get someone to turn the key (WITH THE EMERGENCY BRAKE ENGAGED AND THE CAR OUT OF GEAR) and to reach up under the left rear wheel and whack the solenoid with your jack handle. It's worked for me when I've needed to do it (infrequently) for about 20 years!
Brad Anders |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Houston, TX USA
Posts: 117
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Now that we are talking about starters, I just finished a former 1.8 which is now a 2055 and wanted to get oil pressure up before I put the engine in. I installed the starter and did the jumper cable connection to my 96 Tahoe. I was able to get the engine to turn over, without plugs and develop 30 psi of oil pressure( with the Tahoe running feeding juice). It turned VERY slow however, and if you put plugs in it rotated once every 15 seconds or so. I know the engine is free to turn because I can turn it by hand with the plugs in by grabbing the cooling fan.
Think it's just a weak starter? |
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914 Geek
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Bad connections. I'll bet a buck that the ground strap on the tranny has not been hooked up. It's either not hooked to the tranny, or not hooked to the trunk floor, or there is another complete disconnection in the ground part of that circuit.
--DD ------------------ Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Houston, TX USA
Posts: 117
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Dave,
The engine is sitting on my shop table. I hooked the + jumper cable to the starter and the - to the xmission ground strap, then took a screwdriver and jumped across the solenoid to get it to pull in. Solenoid pulled in fine and starter turned really slow. I did wire brush the two terminals on the starter after my initial tries but this didn't help. Also, the body of the starter was quite warm after only a few revolutions. GS |
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914 Geek
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Hmm, I guess I'd lose my buck.
Maybe a bad connection inside the solenoid? --DD ------------------ Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Jacksonville, FL., USA
Posts: 583
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Jabez, Get a used starter from someone (I have extras but I'm on the East coast). I'd bet that 90% of the used starters (from parts cars) are good units. You should be able to find one cheap. From what you have said, I think your starter has some burned up windings.
philinjax |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Houston, TX USA
Posts: 117
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I was thinking the same thing. I as planning to check voltage before and after the solenoid while it was cranking. Maybe this will tell me what is happening.
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