Replacement Fuel line kits

[BigD9146gt]

Well they're close to being done. I'm waiting for one more part from Cohline, but heres a few pics of the lines so far.

Here are the fittings attached to the shortened gas tank fittings-


Here are the lines out of the car-


The exsiting fuel line holes need to be drilled out with a 3/4" drill to allow the threaded nipples which are silver soldered on to fit.-


Here are both the lines with the pre-installed rubber O ring inplace-


Next, through the access panel at the front of the tunnel, place the ends through the hole-


Another view-


Next, carefully slice the rubber gromet with a razer blade as shown below. You do not need to slice through the whole gromet, just enough to slide it over the two lines-


Apply some lube to the gromet. I used armor-all, but anything slick will work. Then slide the gromet over the two tubes and push into the hole. Here is the final product-


Having the car up on a lift is ideal. With the engine out and right rear wheel removed, this process should only take 2 hours. I recommend that the shifter rod be removed from the firewall section, as it makes a great peep hole to watch the tube end as you guild it through the tunnel. With the motor in the car, i imagine it would take maybe an hour more. I will be installing this kit on a few other cars with the motors in, so i will be able to post my results later. If there is enough interest in this kit, i will produce them and make them avaliable to Pelican and other companies to sell.

[BigD9146gt]

Here are the fuel lines before i had a chance to crimp them. The braiding is a tin coated steel.


I will have two complete kits avaliable and one single line for a carburator kit avaliable. I make every kit to suit each application. I need to know where the fuel pump and filter is located, and if you want the flex lines to be routed other than stock.

Here are the lines/fittings before soldering.

[mike mueller]

looks good.....any idea on pricing? How are the lines going to be shipped? (rolled up or ???)

[BigD9146gt]

Thanks Mike. I'm hoping the price will be around $200. They will be shipped in the pre- bent lenths (they're just under 5" long), so i should be able to get some cardboard tubing. Some final bending may be inorder, but very minimal.

[Amark]

Will your kit include the fittings at the tank? How do you make the transition from the braided line to the fuel pump?
Thanks,

[BigD9146gt]

Mark,

The kits will include the fittings to the tank. I have a few extras, but i will have a core charge because the aluminum nut that holds the tube to the tank, which is a M18x1mm (really odd size), i haven't been able to find alone.

As for the fittings to the fuel pump and other stock slip fit/hose clamp parts, there are two options. The first, which is probably what i will do for all cases unless asked not to, there are fittings that crimp to the hose like the other threaded fittings, and the other side is just smooth, so you can use a short peice of regular fuel hose with a hose clamp on it and the fuel pump/other fitting slip fit.
Or, i can leave the braided fuel line cut (i tape the end before i cut it to keep the braid from unwinding), so you can hose clamp it directly to the fitting.

I also would like to mention that these kits can very depending on how much "pre" work you want. I can send them in raw form, partially assembled, or fully assembed. Some want more, some want less, and i would like to accomidate to everyones needs.


Here are some more pics of the finished hard lines. Each kit includes a large (supply) and small (return) line-

[BigD9146gt]

The purpose of these kits is to make a high quality replacement with OEM materials and the convience of threaded fittings to make installation easier. This isn't an "overkill" kit, or i hope i'm not presenting it that way. My goal is to provide a high quality kit with the perks of threaded fittings (like most of the better treated cars Porsche produced....).

I personally dislike having to cut rubber hose down the center in hard to reach places sothat i can take the fuel line off the slip fit. After years of being on a solid tube, the rubber hose is siezed to the sold peice, and sometimes theres no good way to grip and twist the fuel hose to brake the seal. With this, its two wrenches. No stripped hose clamp socket, weird angles to get the screw driver on the hose clamp, etc. I also supply enough hose to lift the gas tank out and rest it on the cross member sothat you can get to the fittings for detachment.

I wish there was a way to make everything attach by thread. But the stock fuel pumps and filters will always require the slip fit/hose clamp approach. The good thing is with this kit, you get rid of the plastic tunnel lines, you illiminate most of the slip fittings at the gas tank and other places, and you only need short sections of slip fit/hose clamps, not meters.

[Alfred1]

Looks good. I could probably use a kit in the future.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Originally posted by BigD9146gt
As for the fittings to the fuel pump and other stock slip fit/hose clamp parts, there are two options. The first, which is probably what i will do for all cases unless asked not to, there are fittings that crimp to the hose like the other threaded fittings, and the other side is just smooth, so you can use a short peice of regular fuel hose with a hose clamp on it and the fuel pump/other fitting slip fit.

If I may make a suggestion, I think it would be nice if you put a bubble flare just in from the end of the smooth tubing part. That gives you a more secure joint between the metal hard line and the rubber hose. See the ends of the stock four-cylinder fuel rails for the general idea...

Or perhaps you could put on a standard pipe thread fitting so that we could attach a barbed fitting onto it? Those tend to make for rather secure joints from hard-lines to hoses...


...Oh, and another suggestion. It might not be a bad idea to head over to http://www.914club.com and post this in the "Club Members Products" section. You'll get more views with posts in both places.

--DD

[BigD9146gt]

Dave, good call . Instead, I will install "double barb ended" hose connectors for this reason.

[bowlsby]

Interesting project there...lots of liability too...

What is to keep the hard lines from bouncing on the center tunnel surfaces and rubbing against each other, causing noise as you go over bumps and friction wear?

[elwood-914]

Don, this is really nice. I would really be interested, maybe this spring when I relocate my fuel pump. Good job.

[BigD9146gt]

bowlsby, I forgot to mention that i will be supplying some rubber hose with a slice down the center that you can slide over any rubbing points.

What keeps these lines from bouncing on the surfaces when going over bumps and other friction ware are the same principles that apply to the plastic lines placed by the factory. It seams to me, that its still pretty rare after all these years that a hole is created in the plastic lines due to rubbing. But it has happen, and i think will happen more over time due to the 30+ year lifetime these have endured.

Most problems i've seen are in the engine compartment due to heat, causing the plastic to become brittle and crack, making the remaining plastic section shorter and shorter.

I've heard lots of argements about having braided lines down the tunnel will "saw" through eachother. But what about the clutch line? Its in a steel tube in the tunnel... and it has WAY more pressure acting on it. Its been 30+ years, how many of those do you hear about "sawing" through? It moves 3/4" forward and back? Say you drive 5K miles a year for 30 years... Over 5000miles you would used the clutch 100 times?(Once every 50 miles) So a generous 100 times a year for 30 years is 30,000 times, 30,000 times back and 30,000 times forth, a steel braided line in a steel tubing....

As with anything, paying attention to how everything is functioning and keeping properworking order is key. Most newer cars great, you don't have to do anything for 150K miles except change the oil and tires. As we all know, these older cars require way more than that, but if done right, will make that 150K mile mark and beyond. And thats a fun part about owning a 914... or any Porsche for that matter.

The instructions will include all the steps to insure proper installation.

[jhadler]

Wow Don!

I wish you had those available last year! I would up exhausting my supply of curse words trying to get new hard lines in there. I wound up giving up and going with braided SS lines. Not the cheapest option to be sure...

-Josh2

[spunone]

Whats the cost for a single Line for the cars with carbs? looks very clean

[rrivera]

Great work, I'm sure many will appreciate.
I notice you have your engine out, have you tried putting this in
with the engine in? Many owners may not want to pull the engine.

Thanks

[BigD9146gt]

In my first post, i mentioned that i was giong to do this, it wasn't that clear, so i added it.

Thanks, Don.

Originally posted by BigD9146gt
...Having the car up on a lift is ideal. With the engine out and right rear wheel removed, this process should only take 2 hours. I recommend that the shifter rod be removed from the firewall section, as it makes a great peep hole to watch the tube end as you guild it through the tunnel. With the motor in the car, i imagine it would take maybe an hour more. I will be installing this kit on a few other cars with the motors in, so i will be able to post my results later. If there is enough interest in this kit, i will produce them and make them avaliable to Pelican and other companies to sell.

[BoxsterGT]

Subscribed.
Great posting.

[luz]

Don,
Iwould like to buy your fuel line kit.
contact me Fcampa@comcast.net or 916-362-5529 or cel 926-201-4167

[Rrrockhound]

This is an old thread (check the posting dates).

For ready-made 914 fuel line kits, see tangerineracing.com