Freeze Plugs

[DSPTurtle]

I read through the posts about freeze plugs. I cannot find anything on the sizes of taps or where to get the plugs. My FLAPS did not have any, nor did Home Depot or Lowes. Where are you guys getting these things. If I can find the stuff I think I am going to try to compile a kit so everyone will know exactly what they need. A few of the plugs seem to be a little bigger than a 1/2'. Another of the plugs seems to be almost an inch. I cannot find taps that are bigger than 1/2". I need somebody's help on how to locate the correct taps and plugs.
Once I find everything I will post it. Maybe Wayne can offer it as a kit. I have been looking for two weeks now and zero luck.
TIA

[Will98D]

I assume you mean oil gallery plugs... maybe one of the engine builders can provide a summary of what's required.

[DSPTurtle]

Will98D....yeah, I jsut realized how stupid that sounds. Oil Galley plugs is what I meant.
Thanks for catching that.

[Germain]

you just need a tap. Like top make a thread?

Try your local hardware store... NOT home depot.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Pipe caps. I forget the sizes, but possibly 3/8" for a number of them. You'll need a couple of pipe thread (tapered thread) taps in the correct size.

If the engine is not apart (so you can clean out the debris), don't do this. Metal shavings in the oil galleries are not something you want. If the engine is together, just use thhe Loctite "freeze plug" stuff. Or possibly epoxy like JB Weld. Clean the area hyper-clean, then goop over the top of them.

--DD

[roadtrp204]

1/4" and 3/8" NPT (Nation Pipe Tread) Taps are what is needed. The large plug on the oil pump side of the engine does not need to be replaced, it is for the pickup tube on the low pressure side. Get the zinc plated steel allen style pipe plugs they will not rust. The passage on the flywheel side that feeds the lifters has a passage to the cam just inside, do not run the tap in to far as the plug will cover this passage before it seats. Clean, clean, clean, clean the passages and then clean them some more, rifle brushes, carb cleaner, brake parts cleaner and compressed air come in handy for this chore. Coat the plug threads in something like Permatex no. 1, never use any silicone on the lubrication system.

[DSPTurtle]

Uh Oh.... I already drilled out the big one. Where do you get the threaded plugs? In all sizes? They have to be aluminum right???

[roadtrp204]

Here is some links to info on the subject: http://shoptalkforums.com/bbs/NonCGI/Forum1/HTML/001610.html
http://shoptalkforums.com/bbs/NonCGI/Forum1/HTML/001667.html
http://shoptalkforums.com/bbs/NonCGI/Forum1/HTML/001222.html
http://shoptalkforums.com/bbs/NonCGI/Forum1/HTML/001035.html
http://shoptalkforums.com/bbs/NonCGI/Forum1/HTML/000997.html


You might try a NAPA autoparts store (they tend to have more automotive aware counterpersons than the convience store parts places). These plugs are also used to plug water pump and heater hoses connections in the automotive world. They are also used in plumbing, so a hardware store will have them but just tell them you need steel pipe plugs any reference to automotive usually confuses the hell out of them. Most people usually use steel replacement plugs, as I am sure somebody makes alluminum ones I have yet to see any (though brass I have seen). Steel works great and the allen hole won' t round out while installing them. As for the big hole, if you can't find an OE replacement try finding a traditional "freeze plug" the right size. I had to replace my case with one from a bus and was able to find a metric "freeze plug" to plug the bus filler/dipstick location.

[DSPTurtle]

Chris, Thanks!!!

I figured they had to be aluminum for the correct heat expansion. I don't want them a. falling out b. splitting the case open. Am I jus tbeing overly cautious here?
Thanks for all the great info so far!!!
JB

[dman]

One stop shpping McMastercarr.com aluminun, steel, brass, pvc plugs you name it. Fare prices and almost always next day delivery. Almost impossible to get a cataloge from them though.

[DSPTurtle]

I should hav easked straight out.... can you use steel for these? It would be nice to know that they wont strip out in case they ever need to come out again.

[roadtrp204]

I have personally used steel to fix one behind the flywheel that popped out and replace the other two there. It is my assumtion that steel is the common threaded replacement plug. Your caution is founded in the fact that if a steel plug is forced too far in to an aluminum housing it will crack. Pipe thread is tapered, the radial pressure increases the farther it goes in. This is also the reason I used a semi-liquid sealer, it does not interfere with the "feel" of how tight the plug is getting. I also treated it the same as a sparkplug, very similiar steel plug in an aluminum hole. Contact Jake Raby via www.aircooledtechnology.com for confirmation, he is a professional type IV engine builder who has been friendly enough to share his type IV knowledge with use enthusiasts.

[Otto]

Every motor that leaves here has the oil galley plugs done. I have many plugs. $1.00 a piece. OTTO

[DSPTurtle]

Otto,
Do you use plain steel, machined steel or aluminum? Which kind will you sell for $1 each?

[JP Noonan]

Summit racing has blue and red anodized aluminum freeze plugs.
Online catalog and 800 number, good service on the phone.

[Otto]

Steel plugs, give me an address and I will send you some free samples. TTOD OTTO

[DSPTurtle]

Thanks Otto!!! But, I am afraid that the heat expansion traits of the steel plugs vs. aluminum block would have an ill effect. I found some 3/8NPT aluminum plugs for Mcmaster-Carr. I used a steel plug to "clean" my newly tapped threads and then the aluminum goes in smoothly. However, since they are tapered I had to ground off a good bit of aluminum the make them flush with the outside of the case.
Anyone ever seen any negative effects from using steel plugs????

[DDS]

There's lotsa steel threaded into the case anyway, isn't there? I can't imagine its a big deal.