castellated nut help...

tahoward · 01-10-2002, 08:58 AM

Those two big ones on the axles are kicking my butt! I got one off, but the other is not budging. I'm using a impact wrench powered by my compressor, 600 ft lbs of torque in reverse and its still not moving. I'm open to any and all suggestions. Thanks again all.

maf 914 · 01-10-2002, 10:07 AM

I was able to remove them using a socket with a 1/2" 18" long flex handle. I guess the 5' long piece of galvanived pipe I slipped over the handle may have helped add a little leverage! They came off pretty easily this way.

Good luck,
Mike

Joe Ricard · Joe Ricard's Garage

Actaully broke the 1/2" square off a breaker bar. 4' pipe cheater jumping/bouncing on the end. Ended up soaking the nut with liquid wrench over night. still no go. got my propane torch heat it up REAL good. Went back to brand new craftsman breaker bar and 4' pipe. With a mighty crack it finally let go.

tahoward · 01-10-2002, 11:00 AM

Looks like I'm on my way to find some pipe! Thanks again guys!

Jim Smolka · 01-10-2002, 11:07 AM

I have not had as much trouble as you are describing, but a 3/4" breaker bar w/a cheater pipe should work.

tahoward · 01-10-2002, 12:33 PM

With assistant holding down brake pedal and me on the long pipe, still having problem as the rotor is now turning along with the nut when I try to remove the nut. Have others had this problem and what are the ways around this? Thanks again all.

maf 914 · 01-10-2002, 01:16 PM

I think I put a couple of wheel bolts in the hub and placed a bar between them so that as the hub rotated the bar wedged itself against the floor, stopping further rotation. That may not be very clear I know, but it will work. Pad the bar where it contacts the bolts to avoid damaging the exposed threads. I suppose you could use a board as well, just drill a few holes and bolt it to the hub.

Mike

tahoward · 01-10-2002, 01:24 PM

With assistant holding down brake pedal and me on the long pipe, still having problem as the rotor is now turning along with the nut when I try to remove the nut. Have others had this problem and what are the ways around this? Thanks again all.

Jim Smolka · 01-10-2002, 03:29 PM

Hmmm... still won't budge.

I have considered drilling small holes into the nut and then replacing it with a new one. Fortunately, they have come loose before I resulted to that drastic of measures

And have you tried the heat trick??

tahoward · 01-10-2002, 04:10 PM

Haven't tried heat yet. I think I'll try the wheel bolts with a brace too. Nothing is ever easy on a teener, at least mine. Thanks all.

Joe Bob · Joe Bob's Garage

Put the tire back on, lower the car.....hopefully the car still has the engine in it. Chock the wheels, put it in gear and set the
e-brake.

Use the 3/4 inch breaker bar 1/2 inch won't do it...it just annoys the nut....and a pipe over the end. Place the bar at 9 0'clock and jump on it.

IF THAT does not do it, look at your watch, and use the other 9 o'clock and get your chubby neighbor to jump on it.....

John Rogers · 01-10-2002, 10:56 PM

As you have guessed from the replys, there are several ways to do the removal. Safest and fastest is to block the car with several stands, remove the wheel, use the bolts/studs and run a 4 ft pipe to the ground. Have someone hold the pipe against the studs so it won't fly off. As Mike says, use a 3/4 inch drive socket and breaker bar from Sears or a 1/2 snap on breaker bar and a six foot piece of iron pipe. Heat the nut with a torch from the outside and hit the axle with an ice cube just before you put on the socket and pipe assembly. Only push down at the end of the pipe and you'll hear a very big bang. When I did the last one I worked on our dogs would not come in the garage for a week it was so loud. Use anti seize when you put the nut back on. Good luck.

David McLaughlin · David McLaughlin's Garage

This is going to sound dumb, but I've been known to over look the obvious too...

You did remember to remove the cotter pin, right?

Just a thought that hadn't been brought up yet.

tahoward · 01-11-2002, 12:57 PM

Yes, the cotter pin was the easy part. I'm gonna try heat this weekend as another attempt with a pipe and 1/2 pry bar has left me with a trip to sears for a free replacement! I was thinking of getting a 3/4 bar, but can't find a 30mm socket in 3/4 size. Ah the wonder of a 914. At least my wife knows where I am. Thanks all.

Joe Bob · Joe Bob's Garage

Sears has a set of large metric sizes in 3/4 that include the 30mm....I either got it from the mail order department or at the store....it was a good investment as it went from 17mm up like 32 ish....I have used most every one.

1/2 breaker bars are for wimps....get the 3/4 and if you ever need a 1/2 one, buy a 3/4-1/2 step down adapter the REAL one...

Germain · 01-11-2002, 01:24 PM

Well I'll be...

I always thought that my 914 gave me extra trouble. However I was able to remove this nut with an 18" adjustable wrench and no breaker/cheater bars.

I must be Joe Cool the strong man...

sammyg2 · 01-14-2002, 08:34 AM

Here's a possibility that will probably shock many on this board:
I have pulled several of these nuts off while at the junk yard, with a 1/2" breaker bar and no pipe.
I spray a good penetrating oil on them, remove the cotter pin, and use a rather large hammer and punch. I hit right on the edge of one of the castleated parts (sp) in the direction of loosening. About 10 good wacks should do it. Not hard enough to deform the nut completely, just enough to put a good flat spot on the part you are hitting. After that, they came off pretty easy. The shocks are enough to get the penetrant into the threads and lubricate everything. It is possible that doing this could damage the nut, and if you hit it really hard I suppose you could damage the rear wheel bearings too, but I didn't have to hit them that hard.
PS I did this on cars that were jacked up in the air, had no e-brake, and one didn't even have a transaxle in it anymore.

Just one more solution for when you get in a pinch....

DSPTurtle · 04-28-2002, 06:15 PM

Tahoward...you never did say whether or not you got the nut off. I am fighting with one this evening from an extra set of trailing arms I have. I just cannot get this sucker off!!! Here is what I am using: 1/2" Craftsman Breaker with a 30mm socket with a two foot pipe out of my floorjack. I have almost used a whole can of PB Blaster. Tell me how you got it off!!!

tahoward · 04-28-2002, 06:24 PM

Turtle, I did get them off using the same things you are, with the exception of: I used a 4 ft. bar and one 250 lb. brother in law! I also soaked the nuts overnight in the blaster juice. Sorry to hear you are having this problem. It is a major pain in the rear! Good luck.

yoh!!! · yoh!!!'s Garage

There is one more option... ... it will destroy the nut. Find out if you can purchase on of those nuts from your part supplier before you use this option.
Take your grinder and grinde the nut thin on one side. Stop grinding before you reach the threaded axle. Take a chissel and give the nut a hard wack on the edge of the flat spot that you grinded before. The nut should crack where it is the thinest. Removal will be easy now.

Patrick