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thermostat
This thing is possesed. Actually the air flaps must be to stiff to be moved by the bellows. The spring won't pull the flaps open as the bellows warms up. The cable is barely long enough to reach the clamping bolt, Am I missing something in the routing. thought it was pretty straight forward.
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Pacific, MO USA
Posts: 343
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You need to make sure that when the engine is cold, that the flaps are indeed closed, which might explain the small amount of cable you have on top. And make sure the T-stat has the correct overall length (again, when engine's cold) see the pic for measuring points. The "A" dimension is 1.81" or 46mm. Mine was expanded and not doing squat. Hope this helps.
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"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're probably right" - Henry Ford '73 914 '75 914 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Warrenton, Virginia USA
Posts: 803
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True the thermostat is prone to breaking, so it might have died.
Also there is a return spring on the flaper shaft needs to be fitted properly. This ensures that if the cable breaks or thermostat that the flaps stay open instead of cooking you engine.
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FS: 1979 Porsche 911 SC FS: 1992 Volvo 960 Wagon potential sleeper V-8 project 1971 Chevy C-10 w carb 5.3 LS swap 1948 Spartan Mansion 30' travel trailer |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 46
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Joe Ricard,
My cable also was just barely able to reach. So I got a brake cable from the local bicycle shop, clipped off one end, took off the sleeve and had a replacement cable that was plenty long enough. From what I understand the OEM parts are pretty inexpensive, but this was a Sunday afternoon and I wanted to replace it then, and the brake cable was $5 and I didn't want to wait on mail order and the thing looked like it would work and... BTW, my first stop was my FLAPS. When I showed them the old cable and described what I wanted, they looked at me like I was from Mars. On my way home I passed the bicycle shop. A little free association later, I had what I needed.
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Ron Dupre rdupre@houston.rr.com |
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With the cable discconnected can you move the flaps by hand? I have seen flaps become jambed on the cooler side from wear. The little arm falls out of the guide on the flap...just a thought.
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Scott 1982 911 SC 1962 sunroof bug 1991 WE Vanagon CARAT WRX conversion |
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I wish it were all that easy
1st brand new bellows from PP. (of course)
2nd perfect shape bracket from KARLP (thanks) 3rd cold engine (hadn't run in weeks) 4th Flaps move by hand and stay open with spring 5th Cylinder head temp gauge warned me of impending over temp. the Bellows gets longer and the cable will slack a little. But I think it is the short cable. I got bike stuff all over and go through shifter cables all the time. So I really think that is my next step. If it don't work I am going back to wired open. Ya'll know it gets hot down here and don't let up till OCTOBER!!!! |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Crestline, CA
Posts: 937
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If you live near the Gulf, don't you consider your engine "water cooled" from the humidity?
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"Inventor - Blue Flame 914 Seat Heater" "Yellow Rusty Cars Are Faster" _____________________________ '70 2.5 (I'll never finish it - Somewhere over the rainbow.....,) '73 2.0 (Just Not The Same) '74 2.0 (Heartless & Lungless) |
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914 Geek
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Do you have it hooked up the right way? The thermostat should pull the flaps closed when cold. When warm, the thermostat should expand and let the spring on the cross-shaft pull the flaps open.
You need to close the flaps by hand when you install the cable. --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Thanks Dave
Yea, I realized that. I have my new bike shifter cable standing by. and will put it in tonight if I can keep the knats off me long enough. I might even put the heater control flapper thing back on. IF I CAN BEAT ALL DENTS OUT OF IT. sure was pretty when you sent it. Nothing a little drag at 75 MPH to give it some character.
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