por-15 paint

[Barber Dave]

POR-15



Has any one used this product,

What was your experience light surface rust?

Does it seal enought to stop the oxidation process?


Is it available on P.P. looked for tech. articles,

I hpe this the righjt area to ask, if not move. thanks Dave

[John2kx]

Dave,

I did a search using "rust treatment or removal" on this site and came up with several recommendations. You can do the same search using "Por 15". The majority seemed to point to Por 15 and I placed my order for a $14 starter kit. This contains all the stuff necessary to repair a 12 sq. ft. area and allow the customer to become familar with the product and various stages needed to perform correct rust repair without having to buy large quanities at a time.

While repairing my door stays, I noticed rust on the inside and bottom of my doors. The starter kit was more than enough to coat the bottom of both doors, my bosses small rust spot and I still have more than 1/2 of the kit contents left for future repairs.

Guess I'll know how good this stuff is in a few years. I choose it based on others successes.

You can check out their products at www.porstore.com or by calling toll free 877 654 RUST (7878).......just so happened to have my receipt/catalog handy. Ask for Jim. He was alot of help.......located in Indiana.

[SummerSledSix]

At the risk of throwing some more mud in the puddle, here are some tidbits I picked up while trying to figure out how to preserve my aging teener.

Rust technically is iron oxide, or FeO2. Key here is the O2 part, a.k.a. oxygen, plentiful in both air and water, which is why teeners don't survive wet environments (pretty much anywhere east of the Rockies) too well without "intervention". POR-15 is a very tough epoxy-like coating that actually cures using water (!) in the atmosphere. Ultraviolet light degrades it, though, so paint over it if your surface is in the sun.

Anything else that sticks to the surface, stays flexible over temperature, doesn't contain oxygen, and blocks oxygen contact is also an effective rust preventative. Caked up 27 year old motor oil is one example that comes to mind .

The metal prep stuff that POR-15 sells is, I believe a variation on the active stuff in Ospho and other rust "converters" that attempt to stabilize existing rust by converting it from FeO2 to some other form of alphabet soup, usually containing zinc or phosphorous so that it is no longer "interested" in absorbing oxygen, or forms a chemically inert barrier to oxygen, or both. When this chemical reaction happens, it turns the metal towards a black coloration. Naturally, you don't want any grease or other goo present to block access of the converter to the rust, which is why the "cleaner" products are offered. My preferred cleaning agent is a sanding disk on a right angle grinder.

It is possible to trap small amounts of oxygen in the rust during the coating process (especially if you don't remove the scaly surface crud), allowing at least some rusting to continue on "unconverted" metal. POR-15 has the consistency of honey, and may not "flow" completely into the almost microscopic crevices in a corroded surface. Their "Metal Ready" stuff is as "thin" as water.

Moral of the story here is, the metal prep stuff *is* useful, and it is advisable to remove as much rust as you can (the closer to clean metal the better) prior to coating it with your favorite anti-rust cocktail.

PS - check out tech article "914 Longitudinal Repair and Reinforcement" for some additional rust prevention tips.

[Special K]

I agree with John on all points except the "consistency" part. I stripped/prepped coated the entire rear suspension on my '73 with one 1/2 pint can, and still had a little left over. The stuff is real thin (and 'yes' I stirred it) and seems to get into every nook and cranny, just get some on your hands and you'll know what I mean ;-)

[Special K]

Can't tell if the picture thing is working here, well if not, you'll have to use your imagination- rear suspension, all black......

[DAS914]

Have used several POR products, ie; the metal ready, the POR 15 rust preventative paint, and the 2 part POR epoxy putty. In my opinion, this product line is the best thing since sliced white bread. The metal prep removes all surface rust and coats the metal with zinc phosphate, neutralizes rust and etches the metal for good adhesion of POR 15 paint. The POR 15 paint goes on like water and binds irreversibly with the metal/rust. The 2 part putty which is water based is easily worked, and cures hard as a rock.

I have not yet tried to paint over the POR repairs, but I am told that if you use an etching primer, binding to the hard POR surface is no problem.

Good luck, Mike


73 2.0

[Rleog]

POR-15 is great stuff. A couple of things to watch: keep it off your skin - the only way to get it off is to scrape a layer of skin off with it. And, once the starter kit jar is used, the remaining liquid will combine with air to form a thick solid layer at the top of the jar. So, be prepared to use most of the jar once you open it.

Bob G.

[John Rogers]

I have used POR-15 for several years and have had great results. I generally try to get the rust off first and in the couple instances were I did not the paint has sealed the metal well. I have also used the manifold grey hi temp paint on mufflers and headers and it is great. I did the stock muffler on our 2.0l and it has lasted over a year with no flaking or rust through. To keep the skin from forming on top of the paint or hardening, I take out a little at a time, wipe the lid sealing area to clean it and finally seal the top of the can with a piece of plastic bag and have never had any skim over or harden on me. Good luck