Where's the Leak

DSPTurtle · 03-14-2002, 06:07 PM

Guys,
Please help... I replaced the oil cooler seals today but I don't think that is where it is leaking from. Please look at the pic and give me some advice. The motor is only out for a short time while the firewall and floorpan get welded in. It is a 1.8L out of a 1974. This leak is annoying especially since it is like Vroomhilda marks her spot anytime she stand still for more than an hour. Any help is much appreciated.

Joe Ricard · Joe Ricard's Garage

I believe the majority of the oil is located under the front main as it seems the most wet. The rest of the oil at the front of the motor is from slinging of rotating parts.
Clean it up real good before you pull the front seal that way you won't get dirt inside the motor. Looks like there was oil coming out the oil cooler or filter mount. Ain't these cars great!

DSPTurtle · 03-14-2002, 07:55 PM

The front main...as in the camshaft seal OR the seal around the oil pump? If it is the oil pump gasket then don't I have to split the motor to get the pump out? I really, really, really don't want to do that right now!!!
Yeah, these cars are great if you just close your eyes and enjoy the ride in "someone else's" car!!! LOL

Zeke · 03-14-2002, 10:04 PM

JB, I think its the oil pump from the clean area or feash oil directly below it. You don't have to split the cases. Notice that the oil pump stradles the case parting line. It is installed after the cases are assembled. Its not easy to get off though. Pry it from both sides at the same time gently. If it doesn't move, move your prying tools around for another go. Equal pressure is the key. Use blocks of wood and paint sticks between your tools and the aluminum and no one will ever know how you got it off.

Joe Ricard · Joe Ricard's Garage

Watch out for the while I'm in here monster. But just to feed the big guy I would replace all them seals. I never like having to do this twice just to save a buck. The front crank shaft seal is the one directly behind the 3 holed plate.

DSPTurtle · 03-15-2002, 06:15 AM

Duh!!!! Joe you are absolutely correct!!! It was late last night, the oil pump is driven off the cam!!!! I should have known that as I have an entire motor down to nuts and bolts in my garages. I will try to change them out and take some more pics if I find anything interesting.

david m. bruce · 03-15-2002, 06:37 AM

I would add that while you're working on the oil pump, that you also replace the O-ring behind the fan hub. No sense in putting it back together with an old $2 o-ring still in there.

seventythree · 03-15-2002, 07:51 AM

IMHO, it is the front main seal or the fan hub O-ring. But it doesn't matter which it is since when you change one, I am certain you will change the other. The oil pump gasket and O-ring are staitionary seals and much less likely to develop leak with age. But, if you decide to remove the oil pump, don't pry on the tabs too hard or they will snap. If it won't budge with light pressure, loosen the case clamping bolts/nuts in the vicinity. Good luck

karlp · 03-15-2002, 08:03 AM

I'd vote for the front main, it is the only dynamic seal up front. I recently had the same situation. I also found the o-ring around the distributor shaft housing to be hard and leaking. Oil was coming up the housing and going under the distributor hold down clamp and running down over everything below it. Looked like cooler seals, etc.
I took the opportunity to clean everything up and reassemble it and bench run it. Well worth the effort.

Karl P.

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

If it leaks when not running, that shouldn't be that awful to find. Just clean up everything first, then look for oil leaking out. Cleaning up that mess is a good idea anyway.

Ditto the thoughts on it possibly being the crank seal or pump seal.

To remove the fan hub after you've removed the retaining bolt, thread the fan mounting bolts back into the hub. Put LARGE washers behind them so the tip of the bolt rests on the washer. screw them in so that the bolts are holding the washers against the case--this distributes the load so you don't mangle the case. Then tighten each bolt ~1/4 turn at a time, and the hub will pop off. Don't lose the Woodruff key.

--DD

norustscott · norustscott's Garage

Clarification: Removing the hub...the washers that Dave is speaking of are to be used to prevent the bolts from contacting the SOFT engine case. The bolt would rest on the surface of the washer, offset from the hole. Washers can be used or anything that will distribute the point force of the bolt...

DSPTurtle · 03-16-2002, 08:42 PM

I replaced six seals so far...

That includes the distributor, oil cooler, oil pump, front main and the seal on the crank nose.

The while I'm in their monster has definitely gotten ahold of me.
It looks better now though...

Anything else I should do besides the pushrod tube seals???

Thanks fro everyone's help!!!

seventythree · 03-16-2002, 11:22 PM

JB:
I am putting my motor together after a long while, and can't remember where the two mounting brackets for the oil temp sending unit wire go. I vaugely remember them going to the oil cooler supporting hardware. If your car has that option, can you answer this question? Anybody else?

DSPTurtle · 03-17-2002, 08:01 PM

I think if you look at the pic above you can see one right near the sump plate on the front of the motor and the other on the oil filter boss. Mine was "rewired" by me and was taped to the engine mount bar because it was easily accessible. Made it much easier. I am not into the "stock look" but I can appreciate people that try to maintain it. I just don't have the patience for it!!!
Good Luck

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

There is one at the "taco plate", but I think that's part of the plate. (As in welded onto it.)

The second goes on one of the oil filter flange studs, as mentioned. The third, at least on my car, goes on one of the oil cooler bracket mounting bolts on the fan shroud. These are the bolts on the outside of the shroud that hold the square bracket that goes around the outer end of the cooler.

--DD

DSPTurtle · 03-29-2002, 08:11 PM

Here is how it is going back in the car tomorrow. With one additional carb of course!!!
Thanks to you guys that offered advice. I ended up doing the P-rod tube seals with the Viton stuff. On thing left to change out are the Tranny mounts and they are on backorder with PP. I guess I will do the SS fuel lines while I wait.
Thanks again guys....

Scott S · Scott S's Garage

Hey! Cool! You are the only other person other than me that I have seen use that color on your engine tin!

DSPTurtle · 03-30-2002, 08:37 PM

Scott, Cool man...it was a lot of work but I think it was worth it!!! Where did you get your throttle cable stand off??? That one lokks pretty professional. I am looking for one as I type!!!

Scott S · Scott S's Garage

It came with the carb kit when I upgraded to the hex-bar linkage - just normal "off the shelf" part as I recall.
-s

Jim Smolka · 03-31-2002, 05:03 PM

DSPTurtle,

Looking @ your motor, there appears to be Blue RTV used as a sealer in various places. This can lead to problems. IMHO, I would remove the RTV and use a different sealer with new gaskets. Personally, I like Loctite 518.

Good luck w/the project