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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Suntree, Florida, USA
Posts: 2,261
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Rear Hub
The tech article does not tell me, the archives don't say anything and the guys at PP agreed with me that you guys might know the answer...
Is there anything special I shoudl tell the machine shop when I have them drill my rear hubs? Should I have them weld closed the current holes? Does the hub need to be balanced after the drilling? Will they know what I mean when I ask them to drill it for five bolt patern and to press in the studs? I can't imagine that they would have those measurements off the top of their heads??? Please help... I am ready to head to the machine shop as soon as I know what to do!!!
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JB - BreitWerks www.breitwerks.com 321-806-8664 Engine Rebuild & Restorations |
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04-29-2002, 07:33 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 369
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JB, got mine done via Patrick M/S. Might cost a bit more than your friendly local machine shop, but they know what they're doing and what needs to be done.
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John Yellow '76 914 3.2 (YPAF) |
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04-29-2002, 08:08 PM
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I am having mine done right now. The only trick I have heard is to tack weld the studs to the hub after they are pressed in. There is not that much meat using the later hubs so this keeps the studs from spinning loose. To do it you put the hub, disc and a rim together torqued to spec and then tack the studs slowly so you don't heat the hub up warping it.
Or use the early hubs and just press em in and forget em. Geoff
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76 914 2.0L Nepal Orange (2056 w/Djet FI, Raby Cam, 9to1 compression) www.914Club.com My Gallery Page |
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04-29-2002, 08:44 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Crestline, CA
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The machine shop should be able to register off one hole. You need them to drill on a 130 mm bolt circle and if my 1961 geometry hasn't failed me, the centerlines of the holes will be 72 degrees apart (nice job for a vertical mill).
For the thinner late model hubs, I would think you could weld spots on the backside of the hub where you are going to drill. Drill the holes, countersink them for the studs to fit. A good machininst can balance the hub in a lathe (by feeling the vibration of the lathe), but I can't see this being necessary.
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"Inventor - Blue Flame 914 Seat Heater" "Yellow Rusty Cars Are Faster" _____________________________ '70 2.5 (I'll never finish it - Somewhere over the rainbow.....,) '73 2.0 (Just Not The Same) '74 2.0 (Heartless & Lungless) |
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04-29-2002, 08:57 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Suntree, Florida, USA
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Thanks Ron!!! I think that is the type of data I am looking for...hopefully the machine shop will understand it. It is too bad that no one has a core trade out program...like if you mail us your 4 holer's we will send you back a 5 holer. I wonder if there would be any interest in that. I have to imagine that the hardest part is getting the freakin hub off the car!!!
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JB - BreitWerks www.breitwerks.com 321-806-8664 Engine Rebuild & Restorations |
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04-30-2002, 04:47 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Suntree, Florida, USA
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What sive studs do you guys recommend? I have seen the 72mm but not sure if they are too long??? Anyone have an idea of what the machine shop will charge? I just want to make sure I don't have a heartattack in front of them.
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JB - BreitWerks www.breitwerks.com 321-806-8664 Engine Rebuild & Restorations |
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04-30-2002, 05:14 AM
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RETIRED
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GPR does a core trade....800-321-5432
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04-30-2002, 06:13 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Savannah, GA, USA
Posts: 653
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Turtle,
Troutman does offer an exchange service for 5-studding 914 hubs. Check their adds in Panorama or Excellence. Here is their web site, give them a call: http://germanpartsusa.com/ Mike |
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04-30-2002, 06:13 AM
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1976 Porsche 914-4 2.1.L 2.1L
Da cab
