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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bellevue, Wa.
Posts: 15
Distributor is 180 degrees off

Hi. I recently bought a 1973 2.0 914. As I work my way through the tune-up process I'm finding several non-standard items. The 1st is that the Head Temp. Sensor is located between cylinders #1 & #2. It appears that a rebuild was done and then the heads were mounted in reverse. An access hole was cut with tin-snips in the sheet metal. It's working fine.
The 2nd is that the distributor seems to be 180 degrees off. With TDC lined up on the compression stroke on #1 cylinder, the rotor is pointed down towards 4 o'clock or where the #3 plug wire should be. That's ok though because the plug wire located here actually goes to cylinder #1. It appears that the plug wires for #1 & #3 and #2 & #4 are inverted. The vacuum advance unit is on the left but points down towards 8 o'clock. The engine runs great.
I think I need to pull the distributor & rotate the drive shaft to the correct position. I don't find the Haynes book directions, (Pg. 64, Para. 6) Very helpfull. Any advice?

Old 04-29-2002, 09:20 AM
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Location: Crestline, CA
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The engine doesn't really care where the #1 cylinder is located on the distributor. If you want to follow convention, pull the drive gear and rotate it. The only potential problem would be being able to swing the distributor sufficiently to achieve timing because of the vac advance/retard can.

To reset it, make sure you are on compression stroke #1 cylinder. Pull plugs to make engine easier to rotate by hand (I pull on the alternator belt while pushing down on the belt). Rotate till dist starts approaching #1 position, stick finger in #1 spark plug hole, rotate engine and see if compression stars to build. Bring up to TDC by the mark.

Mark current #1 position on block with chalk/crayon. Pull dizzy, insert bolt into dist drive, pull up slowly (it will rotate as it comes out), There may be washers on the bottom of the drive spindle, you'll have to keep them from falling into the block. Once out rotate 175 degrees and start to slide it back into place - should come out at 180 as the distributor and crankshaft gear mate (remember it rotates). Reinstall dizzy and see that the rotor is pointed 180 degrees from your chalk mark. Time engine

or

take it to a mechanic if you are uncomfortable with the procedure.

Remember, the engine doesn't care.
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Old 05-01-2002, 08:16 PM
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Thanks Ron

Thanks Ron. Hopefully this isn't to dumb a question but... can you explain "insert bolt into distributor drive"? would that be above or below the distributor body and, you refered to washers on bottom of drive spindle. Are these gonna fall off the minute I lift the distributor or will they be some what stuck to the spindle. I really appreciate the advice.
Old 05-02-2002, 07:50 AM
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I've never heard of using a bolt for that; I don't recall the drive being threaded internally either. (Would be neat if it were so...)

I tried using a distributor driveshaft puller for a Type I engine, but it didn't expand enough to be able to pull the Type IV shaft. So I used internal snap-ring pliers--I stuck the nose of the tool down into the recess in the end of the distributor driveshaft, and squeezed the handle to spread the jaws apart. A pull and a little twist, and the driveshaft came out.

In my case, the washer stayed put down inside the driveshaft's bore.

--DD
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Old 05-02-2002, 09:56 AM
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Ok Dave, you got me on that one. I fogot that they weren't threaded, but you can jam a small diameter bolt in the recess on most engines that have a seperate drive gear. I also forgot to tell him to remove the spring prior to jamming some device in (was trying to limit my disertation on rotating the drive gear). I should have attached a picture.

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"Inventor - Blue Flame 914 Seat Heater"

"Yellow Rusty Cars Are Faster"
_____________________________
'70 2.5 (I'll never finish it - Somewhere over the rainbow.....,)
'73 2.0 (Just Not The Same)
'74 2.0 (Heartless & Lungless)
Old 05-02-2002, 11:38 AM
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