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oil pressure switch broken off
After getting my 75 2.0 back on the road, I had a significant oil leak from the oil pressure switch. I was in a jam and wasn't able to get a new switch in a timely manner so I took one off of one of my other 914s. When re-installing the new (used) switch it broke off in line with the case. Of course there is a hole through the center of the threaded part so it is not sealed. I have tried an easy out with a long extension etc to try and remove the threaded piece but it is not budging. I get good 'dig' with the easy out but cant really get a good grip on it even with vise grips.
Any one had this problem? Thoughts on what I can do? I'm contemplating drilling but am worried about metal going through the hole into the engine. Not super keen on pulling the engine again. Thanks! Brian |
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01-19-2013, 11:32 AM
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Discovery Bay, ca
Posts: 269
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Quote:
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01-19-2013, 05:00 PM
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Resident Electrician
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You may want to consider (when you get it out) cranking the motor and blowing oil and brass out of the case before you replace the unit. It may be messy but it should push the brass bits out.
__________________
Current Project: 73 914, 1.8t, ~300hp, 930 Brakes, Roll Cage Past Projects: 69 911, converted to C2 wide body cabriolet 3.2L 72 914, Ford 5.0L V8 EFI |
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01-19-2013, 11:17 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 426
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make sure you dont over tighten these switches, they are a pipe thread (tapered thread) and thus are not supposed to be tightened down like a regular bolt.
these pipe threads are a bit tricky, you can keep turning them , (they dont bottom out and stop) turn them too much and several bad things can happen. 1. the part can break like yours did (likely the best outcome of over tightening it!) 2. the tappered threaded hole in the motor case can be stripped out (Ugh!) 3. the tappered hole in some instances can be split open (ugh!) For you, try again with the EZ out you may want to try a different brand EZ out, some shapes will bite better than other, depending on the hole size and material. drilling out a larger diameter hole to allow a bigger EZ out to be used is also an option. two things happen when you drill out a hole to a bigger size EZ out. 1. a larger easy out has a lot more surface to grab onto, and a bigger EZ out wont as easily break as a small one. 2 the bigger hole you drill will actually reduce the torque required to remove the broken threaded part when your done removing it, try a strong shop vac to help remove any residue metal bits, then as suggested crank her over a bunch to pump oil out of that port, flushing any remaining metal. the most important thing to remember when removing stuck hardware is BE PATIENT. take your time, dont over force it, a broken EZ out stuck in the hole is even a worse problem. if one method is not working stand back and try something else, ask around (as you have) best of luck |
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01-20-2013, 10:04 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Milky Way Galaxy - 3rd Stone
Posts: 871
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If you are going to drill it out, coat the drill with heavy grease and it will capture most, if not all of the metal shards for the most part ... drill at slow speed.
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Ron Meier Backyard Shadetree Mechanic 1974 914/6 conversion with 2.7L (The Grey Ghost) 1973 Chalon with 2.4T MFI (Schlitzalom) All my 4 cylinders are gone 
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01-22-2013, 06:04 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Simi Valley, Ca.
Posts: 265
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Harbor Freight sells a small kit with four LEFT HAND drill bits and four easy outs. Before you start, use a grease gun to force some grease into the hole. Use the largest drill you can (remember to put your drill on COUNTER CLOCKWISE rotation) and proceed very slowly. Some times the part will come out if the drill takes a good bite. After removal, crank the engine to squirt the grease out the hole.
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02-04-2013, 11:26 PM
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Sasquach
