shift linkage
 

OK, I want to drop the engine on my '74 2.0L. All wires hoses etc are disconnected and out of the way. I tried to remove the shift linkage and it won't move. Yes I removed both set screws.The front seems to slide out a little but the rear nothing. Is there more to remove other than the set screw to get that linkage out?

Wiggle the rear coupler--the part that was inside that plastic cover on the transmission. Wiggle it loose, then slide the rear shift rod forward as far as it goes. I think that will be far enough to let you slide the rear coupler off.

Then pull back on the universal joint up by the firewall. Try wiggling the part of the joint where the screw goes, and twisting it as well. Once it breaks loose, you should be able to slide it back off the front shift rod.

Then you can slide that rear shift rod forward again and out of the hole in the "side-shifter console" part on the tranny.

At least, that's how it works on my 74...

--DD

I tried twisting, jiggling and tapping with a hammer, not a budge. The front seems to be moving, so is it possible to drop the engine while the shift linkage is still attached to the trans? Also the PO must have left off the front set screw, does pelican sell it?

Yeah, Pelican sells the cone set screw. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/9144/POR_9144_pedals_pg2.htm#item14

I've never tried to drop the drivetrain with the rear shift rod attached to the tranny. I would think it would hang up unless you found a way to slide the coupler off the front shift rod first. Have someone in the cockpit move the shift lever as far back as they can while you tap/pull/whatever the rear rod backwards. You might also have some luck using some vise-grips on the front shift rod where it comes through the firewall... But be careful not to damage the surface that slides through the bushing.

--DD

Did I do a dumb thing? I tried everything to remove the rear linkage and nothing budged, so I had a brain storm - lets remove the whole support bracket. I drained the trans fluid unsrewed the two Self-locking nuts and when I tried to pull out the support it hung up inside the trans. I then slid it back in. Am I in trouble? Will the Shift finger go back into place or do I have to open up the trany to adjust it?

No it's ok, just hung up inside cuz you need to remove the shift linkage. Do what DD said and remove the linkage at the coupling. Mine had frozen together too so it takes alittle work to free it apart.
Geoff

When I dropped my motor last year, I wound up DESTROYING my front coupling ( and almost the bushing) and bending the shift rod that comes out of the bulkhead just to chisel the hopelessly frozen magnesium coupling off the shift rod ( UGLY!). It was a case of the different metals welding themselves to one another.:o
I had to buy a new coupling and bushings when I reinstalled
the motor ( used copious amounts of anti sieze on the end of the shaft) and that front shaft is still a little crooked( but it shifts fine).
If this is your problem, maybe there is a better way to remove a stuck alloy coupling from a steel shaft. Anyone have ideas on this?

How about lots of WD/40 followed a day or two later with heating the coupler and then giving it a good whack (or 3)?

The coupler may be "frozen" due to dissimilar metals thing, or it could have been the PO getting creative with some Loctite. Curious that the coupler is on there so tight if "the PO must have left off the front set screw". Sounds like somebody got creative. By the way, PP does sell these screws, just bought 3 of them myself.

On the rear at the tranny:

Pulled front bar out of shifter. Put tranny in first gear - brass drift and "punched" rear bar out of rear coupler (this helped "realign" 1st gear shifter fork).

At firewall:

Put front bar back into shifter, snap tied spacers (long enough to simulate reverse position) at firewall against shift rod coupler - sat in car - pounded shift lever with palm of hand in direction of 1st (hand still shows bruises).

Next time - SAWZALL and air chisel
:D