Brake help please

Brake help please. 1974 2.0
I was just trying to put on the "anti-squeel" pads on the front
but the pistons will not go back. I have the upgraded 911 MC.
Is there a trick to pushing the pistons back?

Thank You

[thesey914]

there is an inexpensive brake pad spreader tool you can usually pick up from your local auto store....or i just use a 'koff screwdriver -(not recommended in workshop manuals)against the disc (rotors for the US) to lever them back in -they usually go in with a little careful effort (try not to score, damage dust seals/ discs)
Cheers

I have pryed and pryed with no luck. I still need them to go back
about 1/16 of an inch on both sides. Now I have removed the
calipers and tried to push them in using a c-clamp and they will
not go in any further.

1. could my calipers be bad? was working fine.
2. brake shoes too thick?

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thank You all.

[Kevin Powers]

i will presume the calipers are still hooked to the brake line. try a c clamp and loosen the bleeder a little as you aply presure. don't forget the hose for the bleeder and a drip can. is break fluild all over the top of the resevoir?

[Brad Roberts]

Careful.

This usually means its time for some rebuild kits. The pistons are sticking in the bores if they wont go back all the way. It doesnt matter whether the brake bleeder is open or not, it will just push the fluid back into the resovoir with them closed.

B

Thanks for all the help!
I was finally able to push in the pistons using a vice, and
all is working great.

One last question, I have been looking at rebuilt and new calipers
for the front to eventually replace. They are listed at several places as "right" and "left" calipers.

Are they different from R to L?, looks identical to me.
Could someone please clarify.

Thanks

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

They are symmetrical, but not identical. Take the left caliper and move it over to the right. OK, now the things that were toward the inside of the car are toward the outside. So you can turn the caliper around--oops, now it mounts behind the strut instead of in front of it. OK, so flip it back. How about turning it upside down? Much better--but the fluid inlet is on the top and the bleeder on the bottom now! (Hint--never use a fitting on the bottom of a caliper to bleed the brakes, you will never get the air out...)

So the real difference between L and R calipers is that has the inlet/bleeder/etc. stuff all swapped around left-for-right. They look the same, but they aren't quite...

--DD

[JWest]

Just to add more info to the things Dave correctly stated: some calipers have two bleeders so they can be interchanged from left to right, but if not, that bleeder better be on top!

[Brant]

hey...

so last weekend I worked on a caliper with only one bleeder screw.. where as previously I have only noticed two on my other car...

so...
is this a difference between early and late calipers?

just curious
brant

[JWest]

I have a car that has one of each!

[Ron Meier]

Early cars - one bleeder

Late cars - two bleeders

[Rleog]

I have a 70 914-4 with front calipers that have 2 bleeders. I guess this means that someone replaced them along the way, or were there some early cars with two bleeders? It's been confusing working on it at times. The engine and tranny are '73 based, but the engine is a lot different now. Passenger seat is adjustable. Go figure.

Bob G

If you needed a vice to open the caliper you need to rebuild them!!!

The "bottom" bleeder valves were to help completly drain the system with out removing the calipers.

Ken