Fuel injectors that don't.

VARam1500 · 08-31-2002, 10:07 AM

Hi, all. I'm trying to revive a car that's been sitting idle a long time. I'm finding that my fuel injectors aren't doing anything. I know I'm getting fuel to the rails (fuel pump is running and I pumped some into a bottle from the line right at the injectors). I've cleaned out the old fuel from the tank and evacuated the old fuel from the lines with the new fuel (with the bottles I mentioned).

So, is it possible that all four injectors are gummed up with old fuel and not working or should I be looking for something 'upstream' electrically that all four have in common?

Thanks for any help! I really want to get this guy running again!

--Case...

Ron Meier · 08-31-2002, 10:47 AM

Pull an injector, leave it hooked up to the fuel rail, put it in a bottle and crank the engine. If no fuel comes out, you figured out the problem.

Check voltage at the harness terminals with a VOM while cranking. Even though the pulse is short, you sould see the needle jump.

Applying voltage to the terminals on the injector, and spraying carb cleaner thru them might clean them out if they are plugged.

Otherwise, lookup a fuel injector cleaning service in your phone book and take them all there to be cleaned.

John Rogers · 08-31-2002, 11:14 AM

I didn't see what type of FI you have, but if it is a D-Jet then turn on the key and cycle the throttle by hand and you'll hear the burrrrrp of the injectors firing. If they don't, it's some where in the electrical circuit that fires the injectors. Could be Trigger points, connectors, wires or brain? Good luck.

VARam1500 · 08-31-2002, 11:21 AM

Ron-- what you described is exactly where I'm at. With the injectors pulled, no fuel is squirted into the bottles. Since it's all four injectors, that's why I thought it may be something else.

I did use a voltmeter on the terminals. I saw some indication but my meter is digital so I can't get an accurate picture of what is going on. Wish I had a scope.

I'll take one out and apply voltage to it to see if it clicks. If it doesn't, then I'll work more on the cleaning / freeing-up route.

I'll check for a local service to clean the injectors, but we live 80 miles from anywhere you would even consider to be a city. I may be on my own for that part.

--Case...

VARam1500 · 08-31-2002, 11:24 AM

Yeah, John....sorry I left out some details. '75 1.8. that's been sitting idle for 20 years. I think this means it's L-jet. Does your suggestion still apply?

--Case....

Ron Meier · 08-31-2002, 02:53 PM

Since it is L-Jet, you need to move the vane in the VAF unit to get injectors to fire. Being L-Jet, you have opened up a whole 'nuther can of worms.

I am in the wholesale core business. It costs me $32.00 per injector to get them "rebuilt". Basically they are put on a machine (10 at a time) that can supply liquid (generally a cleaner) and voltage is applied to the injector. They watch the spray pattern, measure the output and see if it closes when voltage is cut (check for leaks). They also inspect the body to make sure it doesn't leak.

I may have a set of good to go 1.8 injectors that I will send to you if you privately email me your address. If they work, pay me what you think you wanna spend. As cores they sell for $6.00 each. Best deal I can offer you. Oh, they came off a running 1.8 (the engine went into another car with D-Jet injection) about 6 months ago.

tracer · tracer's Garage

The L-jet (1.8) injectors are powered at all times. The ECU supplies a ground to open them up, or no connection to shut them.

The ECU gets its timing information from the same place the tach does--from the points connection to the coil. There should be an extra white (I think) wire going to the same connector where the green points wire goes, and the black/purple tach wire goes. The ECU will never tell the injectors to open without this connectd.

--DD

Found this from earlier posts, thought it may helpout.

VARam1500 · 08-31-2002, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tracer
The ECU gets its timing information from the same place the tach does--from the points connection to the coil. There should be an extra white (I think) wire going to the same connector where the green points wire goes, and the black/purple tach wire goes. The ECU will never tell the injectors to open without this connectd.

Brian-- Maybe that does help! My tach doesn't work, either. I'll check for this. Thanks!

--Case...

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

A "noid" light from your FLAPS would tell you if the injectors are being told to open or not. You can get them for cheap-- <$20-- or you can bid $35 for one as a "fuel injection tester" on e-bay...

--DD

kellzey · 08-31-2002, 09:37 PM

Check your resister block (it should be mounted on the side of your battery tray. These also control voltage to the injectors. Check for broken leads, loose connection to the resistor back, etc.

On my last car, this was shot to hell. A replacement back fixed the injectors.

Regards,

VARam1500 · 09-01-2002, 09:40 AM

I'll check on the light. Thanks, Dave.

Karl, I might replace the resistor pack as you sugest. I had a new-in-box extra resistor in the parts box the PO gave me. That should be an easy thing to try.

Also, my fuel pump runs any time the key is 'on'. Does shed any additional light on why the injectors aren't firing?

--Case...

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

Maybe. Sounds like someone has monkeyed with the wiring... The pump in an FI'd 1.8 should only run when the vane in the air flow meter is opened. There may be a separate circuit to run it when the starter is cranking, but in general just when the AFM vane is open.

--DD

VARam1500 · 09-01-2002, 12:34 PM

Resistors are okay. The points where the wires solder to the resistors is somewhat rusty but at the connector terminals all of them measure 5-6 ohms.

scotty914 · 09-01-2002, 01:45 PM

on the pump running all the time ... see if there is a wire going from the four pins on the rear drivers side of the reg board, there should be a yellow one pass side rear but thats all, you can jump out the pump relay on the board with the drivers side front of the four pins to ground but on the 1.8 you dont need a relay on the reg board any way

i had injectors that were so clogged that i could put 100 psi on them with cleaner backwards and only get a dribble out, yes with them open

buy new or rebuilt it is worth it, or at least get a promise from the previous owner that they are good or your money back... that said i will sell ya a set for 40 bucks with no money back WHEN the dont work

email me i am pretty good with the 1.8 and i will give you my phone number