Fuel line replacement

[chrisreale]

Hi, what type of line would you recommend using to replace the fule line from the tank to the pump and to the carb? Thanks in advance, Chris

[Rleog]

Lots of posts on this one. Stainless steel truck brake line through the tunnel. I had my engine out when I fed a section through from the rear. Tough part was making a bend in the tunnel and getting it to feed through the front rubber seal. Avoid copper tubing. Check out old posts on this.

Bob G

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Another option is stock plastic lines.

They seem to hold up to everything but heat very well. In general, the parts inside the center tunnel don't seem to go bad in 20+ years. They'll probably last that long again if you put new ones in. The part that sticks into the engine bay, however....

The SS hard lines are probably longer-lasting and cheaper, but you will have to bend them a little to fit.

DO NOT use stainless-braided lines in the center tunnel, unless you like inspecting them every week.

--DD

[anthony]

Why would you have to inspect them so frequently? It seems like high grade SS braided lines would be just as durable as the factory lines.

Are people actually having failures in the center tunnel fuel lines or are they just replacing the lines because they are 30 years old?

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

You don't inspect the braided SS lines, actually. You inspect everything around them. The SS braid makes a really dandy file, and with things like brake lines and wiring harnesses running next to the fuel lines......

I have the feeling that most people are replacing theirs simply because they are 30 years old. Some have had failures, but most of those seem to be in the engine bay itself.

--DD

[tod914]

I did my lines recentetly because the tunnel lines where cracking inside the engine bay. After I pulled them, the part of the lines that where inside the tunnel
where like new. I used a flexable steel line. I cut off the flanges on either end and they fit perfect. I used the old rubber 7mm fuel line hose cut in like 1-2" sections to prevent any type of ratteling once I had them slid into place. The line I picked up at a auto parts store. 5 ft peices. I purchased a cheap pipe bender and the steel lines where very easy to manipulate and bend into place.
I have a post on this from a while back. Most
of your question can be answered there as mine where.
The rubber grommet can be a bit of a bear. I got mine out by
putting motor oil around the edge and prying it out with a large screw driver from the pedal cluster side of the car. Grommet popped through the trunk side. Pull the metal line connectors out 1st when u do it.
Durining the reistall lube it up real good. That was the worst part getting it back in. The one problem I had when i was done, I connected the return and send lines wrong in the engine bay.
Car wouldnt start. Steve at PP helped me out there. Thanks Steve! Swapped the line connections and worked great.
Heres a tip - blow out your new lines and then plug the hole with masking tape or something when u snake them in.
If the previous posts dont answer your questions, be glad to help. Also check your tank for rust while u have it out!!!!

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

You might consider using glycerine instead of motor oil. Oil tends to rot rubber, while glycerine is actually good for it. You can get it at your local drug store. Soap also works.

--DD