|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 1999
Location: costa mesa, ca, usa
Posts: 10
|
which paint?? which color??
I am soon getting a new paint job for my 914. I was hoping to get a conversation going, on people's opinion's of which type of paint to use, and which color. I was hoping that it would not only help me, but a few other people, to decide what paint to use and which color to paint with. All inpute is appreciated. The more the merrier!
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Go original. I've always felt that the original color on a 'restored' car is more satisfying. If you don't want to go for the original color SIGNAL ORANGE ROCKS!
As for the paint I've heard that POR (pronounced POUR) is the way to go. Most people say that it is the real thermo-nuclear protection. Thats my two bits thanks CWP |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: costa mesa, ca
Posts: 1
|
BLACK. All the way. It will stand out on a 914 better than any other color. Im getting a new "job" on my 914. The original color is light blue, and I hate it. I would go with black, but as for you, paint your car the color you like.
|
||
|
|
|
|
914 Geek
|
If Conrad is talking specifically about POR-15, I was under the impression that it was only a primer or a paint for areas you weren't gonna be looking at all the time. I don't know if POR makes a topcoat stuff that holds up like the POR-15 is supposed to.
I personally hate the signal orange 914s, and like my light-blue one. (It takes all kinds, don't it?) I have two real favorite colors for a 914, though. One is "Alaska Blue Metallic", which is a very rich-looking deep metallic blue. The other is silver. Ya see, silver (originally white, actually) is the German national racing color (like Italian red), and I think that the Germans for quite a while designed cars that looked their best in silver. But that's just one more opinion for ya. Paint the car whatever color you really like. --DD |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Burlington, NC
Posts: 273
|
I changed my 914 from yellow to silver. The silver looks great, but a complete color change is quite a pain because of all the nooks and crannys. If you do decide to change colors, take the time to prep the surface and all the nooks and crannys THOROUGHLY.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 1999
Location: San Jose,CA
Posts: 29
|
original is the way to go less hasel.
Mines "Alaska Blue Metallic" COOL color |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Quilcene, WA, USA
Posts: 123
|
Original is certainly less hassle in some ways (lots of painted surface in inaccessible areas). However, you still have the hassle and cost of getting a custom match to the original color.
And for that matter, deciding which section of the car will become the "match" for the original since the old paints fade differently in different areas. I took mine from inside the trunk. And if you want to retain that '70's feel, nothing like Mayan Green. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 114
|
All of my 914's and my one 911 are white. The
914's are the new white (alpine?) and the 911 is the old, creamier factory white. They are extremely easy to take care of, and the color hides any little annoying flaws that turn up on ANY new paint job. Make sure your chrome and rubber is impecable, add a nice set of 5 bolt fuchs (polished with factory black accents) and you have a looker. I have to say, however, somewhere on one of the 914 pages is a yellow 3.0 914-6 conversion (Rich Johnson??)that is one of the most beautiful 914's I have ever seen. Whatever you decide, do it right. If you change the color, really change the color. By that I mean trunks (under the gas tank!), door jambs, engine compartment - basically take the bloody thing apart. No matter what color, there is nothing neater than new and reconditioned parts (hose clamps, heater hoses, wiring harnesses, window seals, etc) on a clean pain job. It is not a matter of spending money, just time and elbow grease. Go to a local PCA concours - you will see what I mean. It is very easy to get a similar effect on a street car. -My $.02. -S. Schroeder |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Thanks Dave
I wasn't too sure of all the applications for POR. I still think that Signal Orange is cool. Both of my 914's are Orange and I like the look of those 914/6 racers from way back when. Oh well, each to his own I suppose. (I think 'hate' is a pretty strong word);'{ [This message has been edited by Conrad W Peden (edited 06-04-99).] |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 1998
Posts: 74
|
My '73 914 was originally signal orange and I eventually plan on repainting the car to that color. Signal orange probably wouldn't be my first choice (maybe something like Ancona blue, a light yellow or silver) but there's something to be said for originality - besides, it's so seventies.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 1999
Location: costa mesa, ca, usa
Posts: 10
|
I was actually thinking that I would strip the whole car down and sand-blast it, before I painted it. I would really want to change the original color to some other color. I really don't like light blue, and want to change it.
Do you guys think it would be easier to sand-blast it, then paint it...or would you keep the original color? |
||
|
|
|
|
Hey! Nice Rack! "Celette"
|
I have a few questions first. Does your car have the original finish on it now? does the car need any rust repair? Does it have any body damage that will need to be repaired? If the car has the original finish and very little rust or body damage, just repair what you need to and refinish the car. Don't sand blast it! Unless you don't mind warped sheet metel. Check to see if anyone has set up a media blasting business in your area. If properly done the sharp plastic media will remove the paint with out damaging the sheet metel. I did some work for a race team that had a couple of cars soda blasted. It was a nice clean job but we couldn't get the soda residue out of all seams and traps! I've tried alot different paint, but I always come back to dupont.(my preference,my opinion) one more thing,I prefer to refinish the solid color pre 1980's cars with non clear coat finishes. DuPonts Croma One is a urethane finish offering depth and durablity. I painted a friends 67 bettle (bahama blau)in croma one. A year later some one dented the front lower fender about the size of a softball. I was able to work the dent out with out cracking the finish. BTW my flared 914 with 916 front and rear bumpers is black.
(base coat clear coat spies hecker the worst painting decision I ever made) Black and fiberglass really don't agree. As soon as my new garage is finished It'll be white. Good luck |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 1999
Location: costa mesa, ca, usa
Posts: 10
|
My 914 has minimal rust on the hood. I think it needs a new finish because the paint is cracking and chiping. I also wanted to sand-blast it because there is rust in the trunk, and after I did the sand-blast I could repair the rust. The previous owner also tried to use touch-up paint, and totally messed up the whole hood. If you have an opinion on what I should do, I would appreciate you 2 cents worth.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Hey! Nice Rack! "Celette"
|
Inner body panels are okey to sand blast. But stay away from the outer surfaces if you can. Famous last words "I can blast it quick and it will be fine" aviod temptation. 36 grit sand paper, D.A. and lotsa time. Good luck
|
||
|
|
|
|
914 Geek
|
Yup. From what I hear it is practically impossible to get the sand out of the car after you blast it. Same goes for just about any blasting media.
It's a long and messy job to take a car down to bare metal in a reasonable fashion. There's a reason it's so expensive... --DD |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 1998
Posts: 74
|
You could also use a chemical paint stripper but you have to worry about disposing of the mess properly and maybe the fumes.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: San Francisco, CA, USA
Posts: 19
|
I have an ignorant question: I was originally gung-ho about painting my car myself, but was subsequently dissuaded by a number of "unbiased" professional autobody painters from pursuing this. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good resource (book, web site, etc.) for first-time car painters? Can I get good results on a first-time job? Do I need many more tools? Do I need an iolated, filtered-air space in my garage? How long does it take usually? How many coats?
I would love to do it myself as I have an extra set of hood, storage trunk, engine trunk and targa top to play with (I wanted to actually paint a collage on these so I can switch between the "nice" set and the "crazed" set, depending on my mood). Has anyone tried to paint their car with normal paint and then clear-coated it to ge a really nice polished look? I really want a nice gleam when I am finished. Thanks guys. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Vancouver,Wa.
Posts: 4,457
|
Hey now,wait a minute. DD says it's impossible to get the sand out.
I sand blasted my engine compartment about a year ago and it's comming out. Another couple of years with those good vibrations and eleven blade fan and...... |
||
|
|
|
|
Hey! Nice Rack! "Celette"
|
Seems to be alot of interest in this subject. Well as you probably guessed I used to be in the industry. To share a little back ground briefly, I got my start at 14 on a 63 chev Impala SS. I spot repaired a couple of rust spots with a spray can. I was hooked. That was 27 years ago, later in life I opened a collision repair shop. I've built and raced drag cars,built street rods,and eventually aquired an interest in the finer things.(914'S) And now I only repair cars as a hobby. I would recomend checking to see if there is an adult ed class through the vocational school in your area. This is a great place to get some basics. Find a smaller local shop in your area where the project cars seem to be more obvious. Most shop owners don't really mind giving out some free advice. Ask a local shop owner if you can bring the car by, and if he'd mind telling you how to get started. During the project be prepared to throw the guy a bone and he'll usually continue with advice.
Have a budget! Materials should cost around 500.00 to 700.00 then add 500.00 for the unexpected! theres only one thing worse than stripping off the paint and finding 40 LBS of body filler on the side of the car under the bad paint. Thats not having the skill to repair it! (Good thing you made that friend in the body shop AH) I'm not trying to discourge you from tackling this job yourself, I'm just suggesting you have a backup plan. 500.00 will not get your car painted, but it will help you through the tecnically hard stuff. have a clean space. Oil, grease and body work don't mix. Spend some time at the local coin-op car wash. Pressure wash the car. All the seams, the belly pan, everything. you'll be glad later. Go to the library. I'm sure you'll find some helpful text there. Your individual skill will determain the results. some people have a natural talent for this kind of work. Good luck, Let us know how it turns out. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 1998
Posts: 74
|
Eric,
Go to http://www.eastwoodco.com You can find automotive restoration books and videos there. |
||
|
|
|