stripping: before or after repairs

sweater914 · 01-20-2003, 07:15 PM

When did you strip your car's, before or after you made the necessary sheet metal repairs?

I've amputated the fenders and quarterpanels.

The floor pan needs to be replaced, longs, some of the doorsill area, inside rear edge of the firewall. I also plan to install a roll cage at some point.

sweater914 · 01-21-2003, 06:33 AM

bump

Kevin Powers · 01-21-2003, 06:37 AM

do you have some emotional attachment to this car? or do you just like welding?

kevin

JWest · 01-21-2003, 07:27 AM

Is there anything left of the car or are you just starting with a VIN tag and welding metal on from there?

You can strip the windshield frame (the only part I can figure you have left) at any time.

sweater914 · 01-21-2003, 08:25 AM

yeah, i'll admit the car is in pretty sorry shape, yes the car does have some emotional attachment, it was given to me

everybody's got to learn sometime, come on fella's bare with me and give me some honest opinions(besides parting out the car), i've seen some pretty extrodinary sheet metal repairs done on this board, so i know i'm not alone, thanks guys

JWest · 01-21-2003, 08:35 AM

I was just razzin' ya. Anyway Kevin started it!

What method do you intend to use to strip? It would be nice to leave areas protected until you have to remove the paint, but you don't want to miss areas that need major work by leaving them hidden under paint. Guess it's going to be a judgment call based on the area of the car and the condition.

Zeke · 01-21-2003, 08:58 AM

I did some repairs before stripping and some more after. I don't think it makes any difference. It is hard, though, to clean up tight areas to weld. so I guess stripping would solve that problem. I sand blasted all the tight areas before welding, I ground the flat areas. Personally, I don't like sandblasting method of stripping the whole car, especially the outer skin. I hand stripped the outer skin and had the trunks, engine bay, floor pans and cabin blasted. You will need to remove the wiring and entire dash if you do this. Otherwise, close the doors, mask the glass and go for it.

sweater914 · 01-21-2003, 09:45 AM

blasting the area around were the repairs need to be done sound like a plan

i'd been debating the situation for awhile, if i stripped the whole car the metal would be exposed to the fine mississippi salt air for months, but i'd see everything

localized sand blasting it is

zeke, there's nothing on the car, joe ricard needs to get those photos developed

ss6 · 01-21-2003, 10:37 AM

I'm with Zeke on the grind-where-you-can-blast-where-you-must approach. I read somewhere that blasting can pound rust into clean metal at the microscopic level. Could have been a rumor spread by the grinder manufacturers, who knows.

rhaas · 01-21-2003, 11:24 AM

I know what you mean by the mississippi salty humid air. My 914 needs some rust repair also. I am doing mine one section at a time. It seems to take forever but eventually I will have it all done.

I am blasting all the rust and then por15 once the sections are repaired.

Kevin Powers · 01-21-2003, 05:48 PM

i was being sincere. like maybe is was your grandfathers or something. you could always get a couple of rattle cans of clear laqure (sp) and seal what you blast to temp protect it. if you can , use plastic media bead to clean the metal, kinder to the metal and is not as prone to putting abrasive material in places that you will never get it all out of.

kevin