Rotor Position Vs. Plug Wire Position?
 

So...with my engine at full (crank and cam) TDC - the distributor rotor arm points to where the upper left spark plug contact would be. Shouldn't this correspond to the beginning of the firing sequence - in other words...cylinder #1?

Therefore, should not the spark plug wires, starting from the upper left and going clockwise on the rotor, be #1, #3, #4, #2? (just as it says on the engine block?)

The Lindsay page has the order (again, from the upper left rotor contact) as 4,2,1,3. Perhaps this is not correct for my '87NA? Or did the P.O. somehow put the rotor on 180 degrees off? But I don't think this would be possible.

Could someone enlighten me? Thanks!

Super Head Slap! Jeeesh...you'd think after owning/rebuilding two of these cars - I'd have learned something! But hey - I'm 64...how many brain cells are still working at this point?

At any rate...got the wires right and she fired right up. A bit rough at first with some oil burning off, then smoothed right out. Now just a bit of cooling system bleeding and I'll be good to go.

Two more stupid moves - as I lowered the car I realized that the lift was lowering but not the car. Turns out that I'd forgotten my "safety platform" which was now lifting the front of the car by the exhaust pipe, just in front of the cat. Not too long like this, and all seems to check out well.

Last one...when I got the car on the ground it did not fire up at all - I'd forgotten to reconnect the battery! My hope - if I'm leaning towards senility....is that at least I might be a happy idiot!

Welcome to the club, I'm 68 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gif

X2, and I'm only 64!

Glad it was the easy thing. I have been wrenching for fun for 45 years and still do things like this. I think it's important that we are able to laugh at ourselves, and it would be a great thread titled "Dumb things I've accomplished in the garage." Here's my personal favorite:

I have a LandCruiser that has an 8 gallon oil capacity and started using those gallon jugs of Mobil 1 a decade or more ago when they first appeared. I've had this since new and it's the easiest car to change the oil on. I can literally do it with one hand behind my back. Lay down, pull the drain plug, stand up, unscrew the filter. Everything's free of covers and obviously no jacking needed.

One day I'd left it out there draining for a couple hours as normal to get any crud out. I came into the garage distracted, spun on a fresh filter and poured the first gallon in. Without moving, I swapped to the second gallon jug. Just as the last drops were draining in, movement caught my eye. Ack! a puddle of oil coming out from under the Cruiser! Yep. I had not put the plug back in. Ponder for a moment how much oil a full 8 quarts is to understand why it got under my workbench, shelves, etc. I even ruined a half dozen towels trying to slow it with a dam, but that oil kept inexorably creeping outward at a remarkable pace. Incredible.

Anyhow, glad it was simple.

1342 1342 1342 1342 1342 1342

I’d like to offer something I learned when I recently (here) replaced ignition cables and cap/rotor:

I used the blue painter tape from Harbor Fright to label each and every piece I was worried about before doing the work. The tape sticks well but also comes right off clean and can be written on with sharpie.

Saves lots of grief. Blue tape. Perhaps from other shops too.