High Beam/Wiper Switch Question

[jjeffries]

Hi All, I'm looking for some guru advice here, please.

I'm wondering if anyone can help me put this Humpty Dumpty switch back together again?

It's the High Beams "module" on the wiper switch, 87 924S/square dash that I've buggered-up.

I'd had these stalks/arms off the steering column a couple of times during my Renovation project. As I was preparing to run the car through Connecticut's DMV inspection, I noticed that while my low beams worked fine [as in, (a) lights pop up AND b) sealed beams illuminate], my high beams wouldn't. Some investigation revealed that when I reinstalled the column switches, I hadn't tucked the tab from the left stalk/turn signal arm under the receiving tab on "high beam module" (my terminology) on the Wiper arm assembly, so my physical action of pulling the stalk arm toward me was not being translated to the electrical switch, which is located in the wiper stalk. I took it apart, put it back together properly, thus restoring the high beam functionality and duly patted myself on the back.

BUT ... then, in the DMV inspection lane, my low beams would not work. I got a pass (phew!) but this morning have been investigating, checking voltages here and there, and confirmed the fuses and sealed beams are both still good, and realized that THE LAST THING I TOUCHED might most likely be the culprit. (The motorized lights pop up fine, the high beams/brights work fine.)

So I removed the stalk assemblies and investigated the "high beam module" on the wiper stalk and popped-off it's little cover. STUPID ME: it's occupant parts leapt out, luckily onto the bench (and not the garage floor).

The innards of this "module" were, by the way, pretty nasty, i.e., corroded. I've cleaned them, but I'm still trying to figure out where a couple of bits go.

I've loosely put two copper conductors in place but what about that little "bullet/spring switch" and the other, fork-shaped doohicky? Anyone been intimate with one of these switches before?

And/or: anyone have a good one kicking around? The plastic body of mine also has a crack ... likely common in all of them by now (?) It looks like they're NLA, but I see an NOS one available.

Sage wisdom welcomed!

thanks, John

The two wonky copper conductors had fallen out, but this appears to be where they go. I'll get them in straight before assembly.

[jjeffries]

I got this far.

Just need to figure where the little pivoting fork goes. Anyone?

(IQ test? I'm not passing it!)

John

[jjeffries]

Update for the curious: I ordered an NOS switch off eBay.

Next week: Was my diagnosis correct? Stay tuned.

John

[Project560]

I did the same darn thing. I need your input on the where the plastic wishbone and the spring are supposed to go. This happened in my car when I was taking out the instrument cluster, so I could also be missing other parts. I should have just unplugged it, instead of disassembling it, but now I know!!! Thanks.

[Monkey Wrench]

It might mean some wire changes but I think its possible to make it work with a relay like this.. in that way the high low beam function is not depending upon a bunch of parts inside the switch and if the switch can just make a single contact, I think that might be all you need.

https://www.mid-usa.com/16405-highlow-beam-switch-relay-for-custom-use

you might prefer to stay OEM and how this relates to the 944's headlight raising is perhaps making a bit more involved.

the footswitch here might be an option if the part becomes hard to get or if you don't like it on the column. I think that one has the functionality of the relay within itself. ( note it has 3 connections)
It might mean you dont need that extra relay wiht htis type of foot switch in use.

a relay can remove almost all the amp-load from the switch but it seems there wasn't one in the OEM design.

https://www.gmcrvparts.com/product-p/gds72.htm

[jjeffries]

Originally Posted by Project560

I did the same darn thing. I need your input on the where the plastic wishbone and the spring are supposed to go. This happened in my car when I was taking out the instrument cluster, so I could also be missing other parts. I should have just unplugged it, instead of disassembling it, but now I know!!! Thanks.

Andrew, I sold that car Oct ‘22, having gotten it to a state of being what I considered “done” … this thread seems like it’s from ages ago. When I was writing the thread, I had futzed with that switch ad nauseum, convinced I’d be able to restore its functionality. Over and over, standard definition of insanity. But … I proved that belief to be wrong and as the post above says, I found an NOS switch. It did instantly fix the issue, perfectly. I’d suggest you go find yourself a good example of the switch unit and not follow any suggestions to bugger around trying to redesign the system.

Just my two cents. Best of luck, John