Excessive Heat from Gear Shifter

rob83944 · 08-21-2003, 06:43 AM

While driving my ‘83-944, excessive heat is coming up from the gear shifter. There is a tear in the shifter boot, and I can feel this heat pouring into the cabin. Because this car was in terrible shape when purchased, many items are missing. Should there be some type of heat deflector under the center console that would deflect engine/exhaust heat away from the gear shifter?

While replacing the clutch slave cylinder and starter, I noticed that the existing heat shield on the right side of the clutch was still on the car. When I remove the center console should I be able to replace any other heat shielding material by the shifter?

This car was not running when purchased, but with many hours of working on the car I have been able to get the car registered and was able to get it to pass a NY State emission test.

Car is now running and on the road but still needs extensive repairs. My next project is to replace the front struts, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and steering rack. “ A nice weekend project”. Other project are to fix all heater and A/C controls and cables.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

There is a big piece of foam rubber (synthetic?) insulation under my shift boot. A real PITA to get to the ball socket bolts at the bottom of the shift lever.

Replace the rubber part. If the pin on the shift lever is worn then the excessive throw of the shifter will cause the new boot to tear.

Please don't forget the rear axle bearings on your 83. These do need to be pulled, inspected and regreased every 30,000. Most PO's neglect this.

rob83944 · 08-21-2003, 10:42 AM

Thanks,

I'll pull the shifter boot and shifter tomorrow and see what's under it. IF there is no insulation under the shifter boot, I'll try to fabricate something to block the heat, but allow the shifter to move freely.

Thanks for the info on the real bearings. I have a newer half shaft that I have regreased the CV joints on. This is scheduled to go in to the car also. When I do this, I'll pull the bearings and regrease.

paulc · 08-21-2003, 12:59 PM

inner shift boot.........ebay sells lots of em

VT944 · 08-21-2003, 08:37 PM

Yep - my inner shift boot was competely missing, and it got pretty toasty in the cabin. The PO included a new one with the car, and after install I get no heat through the shifter whatsoever.

good luck,

MrPants · 08-21-2003, 10:02 PM

hey SoCal is that something i could on my own or do you need special tools? its probably never been done on my car

ronin · 08-21-2003, 11:24 PM

needs special tool... I'm the only one that has one... come see me... bring money...

no special tools needed for the boot removal. the boot is held on by some clips that you should be able to pry out with a screwdriver. as for the foam, I don't think there is a special tool necessary but I'm not sure as I never had to remove mine. speaking of which, I wonder if there is even a difference between pre and post 85.5 cars as mine is an 87. Hugh?

justin · justin's Garage

Ronin, they are different,but I think Mr.pants is talking about the rear wheel bearings? There is only one tool you will need and thats a cheese head socket to get the cv axles out of the way,and a big impact and socket for the axle nut,then you also need new seals. Get a chilton's manual or haynes,this will show you pretty much how to do it. If you need on the phone tech support

, e-mail me and I will give you my phone #. Ive done it about 4 times.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by MrPants
hey SoCal is that something i could on my own or do you need special tools? its probably never been done on my car

You need to be able to put 350 foot pounds on the nut when you put it all back together. A 1/2" impact at full tank pressure works. Just drive the nut on tight then to the next cotter pin cross bore where the nut just does not what to move any more. I've not been able to strip the nut with a 1/2" impact.

There is a snap ring behind the inner seal that has to be removed to get the inner bearing out. So a good set of snap ring pliers is a good idea. Also as mentioned a fresh cheese head bit for the CV joint bolts.

This is also a good time to refresh the moly in the CV joints and replace any torn CV boot.

New socket head bolts is a good idea as the cheese heads (triple squares or 12 points) may strip out when tightening. For sure the second time around.

Sam Lin · 08-25-2003, 06:54 AM

Besides the rubber inner shift boot, there's a huge hollow rectangular "frame" of foam sandwiched between the torque tube and the underside of the driveline tunnel that's supposed to prevent heat from coming up - on mine, it was so badly worn out with pieces missing that I just tore it all out of there - anyone know if replacements are still available??

Thanks
Sam

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Synthetic foam is used in shipping delicate instruments. You use an electric carving knife to shape it. Look through the commercial yellow pages in your closest metropolitan area for shipping and packaging services. You most lilkely will not find these in the "regular" yellow pages.