Haha! Good job! I'd look at replacing that engine wiring harness ASAP. A decent used one from a dismantler shouldnt be too hard to get, or maybe a new OEM one... ? Yes it's a Pain in the Ass to replace, but it's the best plan of action.

Glad to see your method works :)

it this point , all my efforts are towards my 911
it's been on the blocks for 5 months, lot's of repairs have been implemented, and the weather is indicating that i'm overdue with getting her on the road again...

i'm stripping the MSD box out of the 924 now , and i'll be putting it in the 911 coz my bosch cd is fried, the 924 can run without the msd

Honestly?
The CIS can be had to deliver all the performance the 924 motor could muster.
Granted,you´d miss out on throttle repsonse tho.
I´ve worked a lot on the CIS;s since the beginning of dawn,and altho i wouldn´t call it hi-performance it sure as hell beat the living crap out of the then current D-jet.

Racing, any suggestions to getting rid of that throttle lag?

I mean, besides keeping the larger butterfly valve open all the time? ;)

Yeah.Several.
Way back when the CIS was all the rage we used to fool around with system pressure and control pressure both.
granted,you won´t get free rev response like with an IR EFI setup,but from a practical standpoint when driving the car the results are impressive.
When Volvo over here started up the VOC (original cup) racers simply learned to work around the OEM probs associated with the CIS and did fairly well.
A CIS is a CIS not matter which car it´s on.
Problem really isn´t with the flapper valve per se.
Problem is that Bosch fooled around with control pressure to reach certain exhaust and mpg goals.
basically a CIS can be tuned(the later ones with adjustable innards-easily recognized by the torx/allen plugs at the port outlets) can be tuned on a wideband O2 for just about any control pressure you like.
The thing is to keep the control pressure high enough to keep idle CO/HC levels within reason.
But...
You asked if it can be tweaked.
Yup.
Rest assured.

see, i've got good throttle response now with the 5 th injector hotwired
:D

granted , if it weren't for the MSD box, the bugger would be floodin the engine at idle or coasting :D

Svandamme.
Look.
This´ll only take a little work,and more or less nuthin as far as money goes.
But...
Without some sort of fuel pressure gauge the whole excersize is completely pointless.
My best bet would be to seek some sort of industrial supplier of hydraulics out.
They will be able to set you up with a FP gauge for a guesstemate cost of 40-50 USD total.
Then a trip to the local yunk yard.
Seek a later model(88 or whatever)Ford escort out that has a KE-jet.
These have a "dual" banjo bolt at the housing.
Salvage that one(metric spanner 12mm)

Now you got what you need to start testing.

Basically you need to hotwire the fuel pump and get rid of the rubber elbow leading to the unit so you can access the flapper.

Hotwire is easy.
Underneath the steering wheel is the fuse panel.
Ontop of said fuse panel is the relay board.
The relay you´re looking for is the second to the left.
If stock this will have a fuse ontop of its body.
Take the relay out and note the numbers at its bottom.
Take a piece of wire and hotwire between pole 30 and 87 AT THE RELAY SOCKET.
You will now hear the pumps working.
That much for that.

If system pressure is what you wanna check,just put the FP gauge with some sort of "T" on the inbound fuel line.
Most likely the OEM plastic line will be wrecked by now anyways,so just buy some regular 10 bar hose and a couple of clamps(is what..4 bux?)
If NA make sure sys pressure is AT LEAST 4,8 bars.
If not,you can take the sys pressure regulator out at the fuel distributor base-metric spanner 16mm-and shim with regular 5mm washers til you reach the sys pressure desired.
Have in mind that when you go up in press you lose flow.

To test the warm up regulator(also called WUR) you basically approach the same way only this time you use that "dual" banjo bolt to get in series at the fuel dizzys absolute top.
Control pressure will vary with amount of heat WUR has seen,and should start at around 1,5 bars and end up somewhere at 3,6-3,8 if memory serves me.

But...
Mark my word.
What should be adressed as an ABSOLUTE first is to check injector performance.
For that you need spanner 12 and 14.
Losen the hats at the injectors by applying the 12 and 14mm-
Then pull the injectors out if NA and unbolts if turbo.
Pull the injector hoses out of the loop so to say and put them back on the injectors while they are still in free air.
Point injectors AWAY FROM ANY HEAT!

Jump pump relay per above.
As the pumps are heard there should be absolutely NOTHING coming out of the injectors.
Slightly depress the flapper.
The gasoline coming out of the injectors should be a clear mist.
If droplets or something looking like that-especially so at light depression of the flapper-is present the injectors need to be cleaned.

Easiest back yard mechanic way to solve that is to let them soak over night in undustrial acethone.
Next morning...just put them back and be ready to reset CO.

Btw.
FP gauge needs to be about 7 to 10 bar capable.

As per what Brando asked btw.
One sure fire way of getting better performance out of the injectors-no matter what the Porsche or Bosch fanatics claim-is to raise fuel pressure somewhat.
We soon discovered that the system will produce better results out of the injectors at an elevated system pressure of approx 6 to 6,5 bars.
Later we also realized that Bosch did exactly the same thing for for instance the 931.

Making a WUR adjustable btw isn´t especially hard or expensive either.
Just takes an M6 bolt and nut and some patience(or a 1/4UNF and nut for you guys;))

Fiddling around with this for some serious preformance tho really takes a wide band O2 in the exhaust system.

I for one run one on my-by now-fairly modded 931.
Have increased outlet dia of CIS to a full 3" to minimize pressure drop to the hybrid K27 turbo i run and simple tuned on the light load allen screws on the fuel dizzy for light load performance against the WB until happy.
It works,what can i say..

Svandamme.
If you still wanna get yourself a dual weber/solex/mikuni/dellorto/SK or whatever setup...
Check these guys out.Swedish company that used to have the Italians die cast intake mans for anything imaginable.

www.misab.se

Ask for Paul if you wanna get jiggy with that ;)

not sure , but i don't like the electrical crap with CIS , my car keeps flaking out and i have the attention disorder of a chipmunk when it comes to troubleshooting

i like mechanical things more than electrical , and i probably will end up with carbs, called this evening , and they're out of kit's new manifolds are on the way in 4 weeks, and i'll probably go for that

i'm not really looking for performance perse , it's my beater car, if it's reliable and has the same performance, then it's allrighty by me

if i want performance ,then i've got my 911S to go nuts with

i might give them a call :D , cause the website ain't that readable for me

Why not simply mail them in english?
info@misab.se

Then again.
Nuthin much electrical about the CIS.
Only thing needed-and hardly that-is the 12V positive and ground to;
WUR
IAC

Just make sure with a common test light between the poles of the contacts.
As they both run on the same circuit,if one of them got current so does the other one.
That´s it.

yeah , i know ,but i've got my mind set to a nice and shiny pair of DCOE40's

and once it's set, i'm pretty locked :D

Racing,
I apprecieate all the input... sounds like a fairly easy thing to get that throttle response back...

Although in a few years... I've heard of people punching 924 blocks out to 2.2, 2.4, 2.5 even, then going with 40-45 Dellorto carbs and getting a lot of horespower back. What's your experience been with going this route as well?

Oh, i'll have to try adjusting the fuel pressure once i get my car back. Fuel economy isn't an issue (getting better fuel econ. with this car than i was with my bug).

In all honesty,don´t compare an IR(independant runner) setup to a CIS.
Don´t even compare an EFI to an IR setup.
The IR will win when it comes to throttle response hands down every time,and the worst part of it is that an IR EFI setup wins BARELY over its carbed counterpart when both are setup right.
However.
Expect to spend a little time doing so with both.

I do a lot of work on carbs and stand alone EFI both(do this for a living),and setting an IR carb setup up sans some serious means of syncronisation is a damn waste of time if you ask me.
Alfa-Romeo/weber once made a capilar tool for four ports that use mercury to solve the deal that slaps anything else out there over the fingers.That´s what i use.Illegal as hell these days..but hey...;)
Whatever you do forget about trying to do so by listening to "hissing" or using the fabled "balls in a glass".These methods simply don´t suffice.Period.

On the subject of the CIS and the Porsche 2 liter.
Don´t fret for a sec.
The point is that as with any motor the power is within the head,and frankly even if you swap for the 31 head on a 24 you´ve still got a questionable one.
Ie;extracting much more than 180 out of that engine without investing some serious work sounds like an ordeal to me.(Ports are simply to small.CC is to old in design aso)

As an example that´s exactly what the VOC crowd did.
Cup rules mandated various pts,and net result was that most dynoed around the 180 mark out of 2,3 liters.
With other means pulling through the "large" CIS(read turbo) common knowledge seem to be that you run out of fuel in the unit around the 240 mark.
The CIS was setup to deliver without problems.

A pair of 40 choke carbs will suffice easily to the 160 mark,and if streched i´d say 180 tops on said volume and design.
A pair of 45 pushes you into the 200+ territory.
Then again there´s always ways around that too,but that´s another story.(Just look at the old Ford BDH aso(BDA) engines that had 45;s on them.Pulled 225 and up)
Put another way,don´t believe all the fallacys you hear.
Couple a yrs back i built me a 421cid SBC with 4* 48mm dells ontop a CB intake for my beater 3;d gen camaro.
"Those´ll stonewall at the 440 mark""It´ll never work bla bla bla bla".
Whatever.
Engine hosed out 568 of the good ones at 7200 rpms with a sprint like throttle response and you could lug her around town in every gear(car was stick) at or around 1000 rpms all day with no ill effects.Had idle at 550.
Hell,me and my old lady drove that car to Maastricht in Holland to visit a friend working for Volvo down there and back with a mileage of 1,1 liter per 100km(for svandamme),and please have in mind that the autobahn isn´t exactly a 55mph zone ;).Drove it all yr.Rain,sleet or snow.Had the x-mas tree sticking out the back with a foot of snow around.No probs.

Guess what i´m trying to say is that people condemn what they don´t understand(for whatever reason) and the CIS is so old by now that mose people simply don´t understand them anymore.
The REAL Q if you ask me is if the CIS is cost effective.
In my case that´ll be replied with a big H*LL YEAH,cause pts are everywhere and they´re cheap.
My advice is;
Buy a Haynes on the 924 if you don´t got one and read it until you understand what the CIS does.How it performs.
Then attack it with the tool above.
In my 31 beater i had a rare fault.
The stock separator membrane within the dizzy was ruptered.
Got another one by scrounging a similar KE unit of said Ford escort..

eeh, 1.1 liter per 100?

i assume you mean 11 liter per 100 , cause at 1.1 , you'de be working a a top secrect researchlab for finding ways to make engines drive economical :D

Anybody tried this?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=139422

Have had a mega around for ages(series 1).
When i compare it against the other stand alones i´ve worked on(Holley,Fast,Haltech,Electromotive,Zytech,Autron ic asf) it lacks in several ways.
From my point of view most of the bells and whistles is something i can live without in a stand alone.
I for one could care less for nitrous control and god knows what else.
That´s not the prime target as far as i´m concerned.

Resolution of builds maps are.
That and that the EFI is repeatable and work friendly.

Having mapped numerous stand alones over the yrs it´s struck me more then once that the developers are anything but car nutz.
Just look at the perfect power stuff.Who without electronic understanding will comprehend what they mean?Now,i for one know how to manage an oscilloscope but what about the average Joe?

To my knowledge one of the better systems out there today is the DTA.
Reason?
Simple.It´s made by a racer.
YOU convert YOUR engine to what the EFI wants.
No hassle or BS with different triggers,questions out the fabled *ss and god knows what else.
No working with trigger in angles or trigger levels and other BS.
You HAVE to run a 60 minus 2 motronic to get the system to work.
Period.
With the trigger wheel and hall onboard tho,the sky´s the limit.
That´s the mark of CAR people designing a stand alone if you ask me.

Who gives a flying if the ECU is able to brew coffee on demand?
Resolution is what´s needed.
Apart from that i friggin DEMAND that the ECU will be reached by the laptop EVERY time i ask it to-without delay or whatever-and i friggin DEMAND that the ECU will more or less take a load from the 12 gauge without a hickup even.

Wideband input as well as EGT input is something i find goes without saying today.
Then of course maps for IAT and temp as well as baro possibilitys.

Stand alone manus are poppin outta the woodwork like crazy the last couple of yrs.
From one perspective this is good.
It brings the purse down.
But...
I still crave for someone to bring me something that works.
Every time.