Oil Cooler

ColeLauterbach · 10-24-2004, 06:15 PM

My '84 leaks oil like a seive. It appears to be running from around the oil cooler. When I look at the Haynes manual, it looks like the oil runs through the internal radiator, which is set in a coolant bath within the housing. Is this correct? If so, the leak shouldn't be from the block to housing surfaces. Does this sound reasonable?

The other things that look like they may be leaking are the oil pressure sending unit, and/or the joint between the filter and the housing. Are these common?

AFJuvat · 10-24-2004, 06:19 PM

All of the above are common leaks,

Check your coolant tank and dipstick - if it has a milkshake like substance in\on it, your oil is mixing with your coolant. This needs to be fixed ASAP.

If not, take some degreaser and clean the area up well, then run the engine and see where it is leaking from. It is also possible that you have a front camseal\o-ring leak. they will leak into that area as well.

AFJuvat

ColeLauterbach · 10-24-2004, 07:00 PM

Thanks. I just had the timning and BS belts and associated front seals replaced. I thought that would stop the leaks. No milkshake, thank god, so I am reluctant to open up the oil cooler if it is somewhere else. Right now I am waiting for a radiator, so I thought I would tackle the leaks, but for the life of me I can't see where it is coming from.

FLA944 · 10-25-2004, 06:26 AM

Seeing as you do not have the milkshake in the reservoir the oil cooler seals are OK. I would recommend replacing the cooler seals anyway as they should be done when you do the belts/waterpump.

Remove your oil filter and clean the entire area with purple power or suitable degreaser and inspect the gasket matching area for the filter gasket. Look for scratches, dings etc.. replace with a new mahle filter.

The leak can also come from the Cam tower (i think this is the culprit) Do you have any oil on the exhaust manifold? If yes it is the tower. I would have replaced the cam tower gasket and head gasket at the time of the front seals as all the hardware was removed anyway ditto for the oil pan gasket.

Good hunting
Rick

JRMock · 10-25-2004, 09:16 AM

The balance shaft housing is just above the oil cooler. There is an O-ring at the back of the housing. On an older car, this O-ring will have hardened. I'll suspect you will find a major leak in this area.

Yes, you can replace this O-ring with the engine in the car, and you can replace the oil cooler with the engine in the car...don't ask me how I know.

Good luck,
JM

Panzer909 · Panzer909's Garage

Welcome to our playground, Coleman. No - the good news is that if it was the oil cooler seal, you'd know it by looking at your dipstick and coolant tank. Doesn't sound like that is what you have going on.

Could in fact be the sending unit or even the OPRV right next to it. The sending unit has a really cheap plastic ring in back which crumbles over time. Mine had a pesky leak before I replaced it when I did my seals this summer.

ColeLauterbach · 10-30-2004, 05:48 PM

How beautiful. I have a crack in my oil cooler housing. It looks like the boys down at jiffy lube tightened one up just a bit too much. Oh well, I had an extra $200 sitting in my pants, and while I am at it I will replace the cam tower seals, etc, etc.

SlowToady · 10-30-2004, 09:40 PM

Quote:

It looks like the boys down at jiffy lube tightened one up just a bit too much.

Do you have anything else to substantiate(sp?) that? I'm not trying to be a dick or defend Jiffy Lube because I work at one, but I have yet to meet someone who can put on a filter as tight as factory filters (although I've gotten them off, and gotten a hernia in the process), so I'm rather skeptical that they caused it. I wouldn't be so quick as to immediately say it was due to JL overtightening the filter. Unless they strapped the hell out of it...

Panzer909 · Panzer909's Garage

Ouch. Never heard of that before. Regardless, call www.partsheaven.com and tell them what part you want. You'll get one at a fraction of the dealer/new price and it should last forever.

Granite 944 · 10-31-2004, 12:49 AM

SlowToady, please don't take this personal, since I'm sure not all fit this......but for the most part, from what I've seen at JL, and others like them........I wouldn't trust them to put air in my tires.......let alone, do anything else. BTDT, enough to feel this way.
But your right!.......theres more to this story.

strath44 · strath44's Garage

Hey all, I posted on the oil cooler a few weeks or so back as I'm about to do the seals in the coming month didn't seem to get much of a reply............basically wanted to know can the job be done without a oprv alignment tool (or can one be home made) or how much are they from the dealer etc or has anyone in the UK got one I can borrow for some beer money in return!? Also any other tips that make the job easier (bearing in mind I want to leave the engine in + seen ck's garage how to) cheers

SlowToady · 10-31-2004, 02:52 PM

I'm not taking it personally, I don't especially care for JL (due to the managment at my particular store). I've never actually been to one, although from what I hear they don't normally employ very "intelligent" people. That's where my store got lucky, everyone there is a true "car guy".

The problem I have, however, is that Cole is making the accusation that someone putting the oil filter on too tight CRACKED the oil cooler. This I find to be _*EXTREMELY*_ unlikely. Perhaps, maybe, maybe, if it was put on with an impact wrench at the top setting, I might go for it. Maybe. But by hand, or even with a strap? No way. On some of the super tight filters I've had, the spindle will unscrew from the base plate before **** starts cracking.

Sorry, I just don't buy it.

ColeLauterbach · 10-31-2004, 03:37 PM

It was an attempt at humor. Jiffy lube is a great place, high quality, etc. I think the real problem is a bad casting. The crack is just below the filter flange, and if it was from a bad mechanic, maybe someone hit it with a hammer to get it off. I have had it for four years, and it has never been to Jiffy lube, nor have I ever hit it with a hammer. However, the crack is there, and it is seeping oil. Most of the leak in the general vicinity is from the oil pressure sender, the crush washer is split. Given these two things, someone at some time has had a heavy hand.

ColeLauterbach · 10-31-2004, 03:50 PM

Oh, yeah, by the way. It isn't too hard to get the housing out of the car. I had to take the power steering pump out, as well as the exhaust manifold. But, since I am re-sealing the cam tower anyhow, it was just a few more bolts and nuts. I would say, though, that if you start digging in, release the fuel pump pressure first, just incase you end up fixing fuel injector seals while you are digging around. You just pull the fuse and start the engine. When it stalls, the fuel line pressure is zero. Also, spend a little time with some engine cleaner. Better to get all the grime off before you open it up.

Again, my extreme appologies to the dedicated men and women at Jiffy Lube.

SlowToady · 10-31-2004, 07:54 PM

Ah, my apologies mate. Didn't mean to start any kind of hucklebuck over it; not worth it really.

Most of the places (most Jiffy Lubes included, from stories I've heard from other JL employees) do tend to deserve the reputation they get. Some are crap, some aren't too bad and some do pretty good work; I suppose it's rather hit and miss. If I could find another car releated job...

Sorry for the confusion mate!

Panzer909 · Panzer909's Garage

Anyways........................

Coleman, your 944 cd is on its way. Also, I'm giving you the seal alignment tool ($40 at the dealer) as I have no use for it anymore - if you still need it.