can it be revived?
 

Hey guys,
My sister has an '83 that she has just let sit for a few years. Now she has decided that she'd like to get it going again. I don't think it has been started for a year. Should I drain the gas?, I figure the oil is good enough to start once (get hot) and then change. Should I try and clean the injectors, other things?
TIA:(

the timing belt... oh god the belt...
it hasn't moved in a year... lord knows what that thing would do after starting it up and letting it get hot :p

Before you start the car...think of the kittens!

Socks. Check the socks.

Yes! Change out the fuel and jumper the fuel pump to run. Fuse #2 to #3 on the 9 fuse panel. Run it a minute or so to clear the system. You might find that the DME relay's contacts may be corroded. You will not get power to the injectors.

And YES! Change out the timing and balance belts BEFORE you try to start it.

I see that the timing belt really needs to be replaced at scheduled interval times, but how come after just sitting? It looks like I've got to get into the water pump (and be worried about replacing that as well, + rollers +???) to get the darn thing out. And really how good is that 90degree tensioning method? The Pelican tool is $500!?:eek:

For belt alone, you just have to take the front covers off.

There are two alternatives to the Porsche tool: krikit or Bruce Arnn's new tension tool thing-a-ma-jig. Krikit should be available at napa (so I've heard) and Arnn's tool is at arnnworx.com. I haven't used arnn's apparatus yet, it's sitting on my shelf.

Don't do it by hand... the kittens will thank you.

Actually for a quickie belt replacement you can tension them by hand. Most will over tension the belts. They are left a bit loose to allow for engine expansion. The smooth rollers next to the belts are there to keep them from slapping about.

On the 83 you want to slacken the tension side of the timing belt by reverse rotation then checking if the belt can be pushed into itself at the water pump. Should almost touch with a firm hand.

Missing teeth on timing belts are usually from a loose belt and this passing/pinch point. Newer water pumps come with a metal barrior to keep the belt from hitting itself.

The balance shaft belt is left a bit loose too. More than what you would think. A too tight balance belt will whine. Some of the balance belts come with grooves in the top of the teeth to bleed off trapped air.

Thsx for the info guys. So I take it, no believers in the 90 degree method for tensioning.

What about the need to replace after just sitting question?

A non-op belt will take a "set". When it's run again it does not like to be unbent. A few hundred passes around the pullies and being reversed over the water pump fractures the rubber and the backing. Then it breaks.

The 90 degrees works on the long pass for the balance belt. Timing belt is too wide and close to the reverse at the water pump.

That can't be good! Thx for the complete info.

I'll get to start doing this over the next few days.

Cheap insurance.

www.clarks-garage.com is a good site for step by step info on almost any repair. The belt itself is easy to change but make sure the balance shafts and cam are all on the timing mark. Read clarks garage.

Good luck. Make sure you get to take the car out for a weekend after you get it going for your sister.

Speedy:)

Good thing I have a Nomex suit.

I recently started a 944 that had sitting for several months by (Gasp!) starting it! A minute or two on the battery charger, and turn the key. Old gas and all. Started right up.

Obviously, no high rpm's, and the belt will be changed before the new debut as a race car. Leak down numbers were great. Time for a roll cage.

A few months depending on the weather is not critical. At one year it starts to get a bit dicy. Two years or more and you have a time bomb.