Yup.....

Here..... http://members.rennlist.com/951_racerx/TestSocketBlinkCodes.html

and how to build one here;
http://www.lindseyracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=LR&Category_Co de=TECHGARAGE

thanks guys. i'll try this tonight perhaps, and let you know.

I just tried this on my car. After pulling the intake and exhaust manifolds and crossover and resealing and re-hosing everything with a venturi delete added, and putting it all back together... new radiator, oil filter housing seal, oil and temp sender, hacksaw koni's, new tie rods, sway and control bushings and a set of rebuilt arms... my car won't boost over ~1.2.
LED test reveals no blink codes after driving, however if i pull the TPS connection I get a code, which must mean that the KLR stuff is working somewhat.
Checked and re-checked all lines and fitting for flow-through and sealing.
Clamped control hose to wastegate and confirmed that boost is definitely
available (this was sooo tempting while driving).
Pulled connector to cycling valve and determined that the valve is receiving battery voltage, and the ground connection to the KLR checks out with a continuity check between the CV connector and the #2 terminal on the KLR brain box (this was scary pulling out).
If I apply battery voltage to the CV and ground it it clicks, loudly.
I can't confirm whether it works while the engine is running when I flap the throttle - it's too loud
for me to hear anything and I can't seem to feel the solenoid switching.
Guess it's broken, but the other indications seem to point towards the KLR.
I also checked the pressure line to the KLR and that's fine.
Feel like I'm driving at a volkswagen rabbit's pace, just with better handling.
Also, everything was working before, including boost, I should add. Now the car runs lot better and doesn't seem to be backfiring as much and the idle is more stable, it's just a dog on acceleration. The difference afforded by new engine mounts was amazing. I almost feel like the effort to get them in was worth it.

On a side note, I wonder if the condition of all the turbo pressure hoses before was so bad that the wastegate was mostly closed anyway, and all the other leaks were enough for the engine to naturally bleed enough boosting pressure without the wastegate. Now that everything is generally new and tight, this just doesn't make any sense that the CV could have busted merely by taking it out.

i'm not one for promoting random replacement of parts without knowing if it's good or not, but unfortunately, the only real way to check to see if the cv is bad is to replace it with a known good one.

some other parts that come to mind which requires replacing to troubleshoot are the TPS, DME, and KLR.

stupid electronics.

i'll have you know i've tested the TPS, KLR, and the DME. i've been after this one for about a month now.

i'd try replacing the CV. :)

i made the LED unit and i'll let you know the results this morning. i drove it to radio shack, motor was still warm, no boost problems. drove it back, no boost problems. this is something to do with it being cold in the morning.

typical troubleshooting:

i made the LED last night and hooked it up this morning. the car runs without a problem. no safe mode, no error codes. maybe the KLR just wanted the company of the LED.

is it ok if i leave the LED hooked up more or less permanently.

it's fine to leave the LED in there permanantly. :)

have you made sure the socket actually works? if you turn the key to the a/c mode so the dash lights come on, the LED should stay on as well.

a/c mode? you mean the e-brake warning light, etc.?

accessory mode. yes.

i'll try that when i leave work today.

it went into safe mode when i left work yesterday. i pulled over, checked the LED, gave me a 2-2 error code. i looked it up: low or non-existent signal from the knock sensor. i restarted and drove home.

after letting the car cool off, i went out to find the knock sensor. the manual says it is between cyls 2 and 3. the only thing i could find there was the idle control valve. so i looked around and think i found it between cyls 1 and 2. it had a black connector with two pins and a gray wire. i also found what i think are the temp sensor and the temp sender to the DME, which had a blue plug.

i reached in there with this huge set of surgical clamps, the are over 12 inches long, and pulled the plug and it just came off like the lock wires weren't set. i put some dielectric grease on it and put it back.

so far, no problems. car ran great this morning.

awesome! now that's how to correctly troubleshoot cv safemode issues. :)

imagine what would have happened if you had just removed the cv and gotten bad gas while continuing to run full boost!

well, my plan wasn't to go to 23lbs of boost... and i always use 91 octane. i am going to give it a week before i call it fixed.

i know many people (myself included) who inadvertently got a tank of 'bad' 91octane gas on more than one occasion and was saved by the cv automatically turning boost down a bit.

its not fixed. it went into safe mode yesterday when i left work, same error code. i am starting to think it may be the knock sensor itself.

it could be the knock sensor itself.

1) are you 100% sure the cv is working properly?
2) are you 100% sure the DME+KLR are okay?

both can be tested easily by swapping them with known good ones, is there another 951 nearby you can borrow these from?

here's some reading;
http://www.clarks-garage.com/951faq.htm

check the section where it says;
6.2 Turbo Does Not Boost Correctly

i've swapped both the KLR and the DME. the error code is pretty knock sensor specific. its going to be painful replacing the damn thing. i'll be removing the intake manifold, at least partially.