I am removing the KLR and DME to be replaced with an Emerald Unit and since my Cycling Valve is physically broken, as in inards hanging out, I am planning to ditch it. With this in mind I was thinking of running an MBC as an interim measure while working out how to hook up the electronic boost control the Emerald unit has.

With either of these the cycling valve can be removed since it won't be used so is there a particular method for it?!

Also regarding electronic boost control from a standalone ECU if I have the driver for it from the ECU where to I control!? I have the stock Turbo, Waste Gate and Blow off valve?

I may have confused myself a bit with this.

Many thanks

Andy

You can simply remove the cycling valve by unplugging it and taking it out. The connector can be left hanging. To run a manual boost controller, just plumb it inline as per instructions to the wastegate signal line (line that runs inbetween charge pipe and wastegate).

If your talking about the pressure sensor for the standalone it depends on the instructions. If its a MAP type you can go anywhere on the intake manifold, if not then anywhere on the charge pipe or compressor cover pre throttle plate. The boost control should be controlling boost pressure at the wastegate.

With the cycling valve removed, you can delete a bunch of the stock pluming under the intake manifold cleaning up alot of the routing.

i think andy is asking how he can control boost using his ems. i think he'll have to get an electronic solenoid type boost controller for the ems to manipulate.

Revelations, for a turbo newbie!

So a shimed wastegate would add that extra boost to the entire range?

My wastegate i shimmed (not by me), when I disconnect my CV so i go into limp home mode, I still get 0.75-0.8 bar of boost. Would that explain why my car boosts to 1.5 bar with the cv connected?