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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 147
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Springs
Just wondering if anyone has the Weltmiester 250lb autocross springs that lower the front 1.5in.? Want to get them for the 924S. Also, will the car look "gay" lowered in the front and not in the back? Thanks
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"I couldn't find the sports car of my dreams, so I built it myself." -Dr. Ferdinand Porsche '87 924S Guards Red, 944 turbo bars, 220lb. springs, Restoration Project even though its and original, 72,000 mile car '93 325is Red, aftermarket rims, pirelli tires, 95,000 miles |
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You won't have to worry how it looks because you'll be swapping ends a lot. In other words, the handlings gonna suck. Do both ends at the same time.
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RPM also stands for Redhat Package Manager 16 year PCA Member NASA Member 1988 944 NA w/4valve S motor (Daily Driver) 1992 965 Coupe 3.4 Liter, webers, GE60 (Garage Queen) 1998 Volvo V70 Wagon 2002 Barbie Electric Kids Jeep |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 703
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Got the 250lbs progressive Weltmeister's but I think mine lower ~1 inch from stock on 87' 924S. Bout 6 months old in SoCal. Still looked little high but rode great. 3 autocrosses on them. Now I'm rebuilding with 350lbs and adjustable ride height kit. $50 plus shipping for both.
Should lower back at same time. You can rotate the giant 36mm eccentric on spring plate inner rails to lower 1/2 inch on rear pretty easy See Clarksgarage for the write up. http://www.clarks-garage.com/ Old School Drag racers normally had front lower than rear. But better balance to get rear re-indexed if needed.
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1987 924S with 968 Drive front to back, Bilstein Insert on mod/stock Struts, 450# Hypercoils, 28mm Torsion Bars, Weltmeister Adjustable Sway Bars, Lindsey 968 Light flywheel, Spec Stage II Clutch, ToYO RA1's, Auto Power Cage & 6 pt Harness, KLA Strut Brace, Greasy hands, heavy foot, and lots of smiles |
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That Guy
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They say 250lbs is usually the most you should go without changing the torsion bars, personally i wouldnt go more than 225lbs. I have 200lbs on my car right now with adjustale spring perches. I have the front end lowered about an inch and i dropped the rear using the camber eccentric on the trailing arm, that netted a 1-inch drop in the rear also. The car indeed handled terrible for the 6-8 months i drove with the rear end at stock height and the front lowered. The car felt very uneasy in high speed sweepers at autocross..i never pushed it hard enough on the street to get the same feeling. With the rear end and front basically even now it handles great.
Everyone reports a different number with the trailing arm trick, some get .5 inches and i know two other people near me who have gotten over an inch like myself. What i plan to do if i really get serious about going further with the suspension is 300-350lb springs (from what i hear this is the limit of 'streetable') and appropriate sized torsion bars to match in the rear. Ill reindex the rear to sit maybe 1.25 inches lower than stock..as id like to go maybe a bit lower in the front. Just remember when lowering more than 1-1.25 inches in the front, you need to address problems with the balljoint pins binding on the control arm pocket.
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Jon 1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L 2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3 Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1 Last edited by Techno Duck; 05-05-2006 at 11:14 AM.. |
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yeah you will have to address that problem, you can get the kit from : http://www.rennbay.com/ball-joint-rebuild-kits-c-30.html
Most people have told me that if you dont get koni yellows then you are a lost soul. Its just not going to be great unless you have some sexy shocks to backup that bad ass ride height.
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1985.5 944 black http://cccraceevents.blogspot.com/ http://ccc944raceproject.blogspot.com/ http://ccc944parts4sale.blogspot.com/ |
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