new 944S

[jeff1hughes]

Looking at buying an 88 944S with 90k. Supposedly a loaded car with all options. Anything I should initially look for when I go check it out? I know "do PPI" but before I bother, if I see something that says"run away" I will before doing PPI. Thanks for any help!

[Eldorado]

it all depends on the price... what are they asking?

[Dave L]

You would be hard pressed to find a 944 without "all the options" the only real options I could think of are sports seats and LSD. 2 things I desparatly wish I had.

The S is good be sure to ask about the cam chain tesioner service, at 90K it would be due. The exhaust is really freaking expensive. Other than that look at all the regular 944 stuff; timing belt, H20 pump, body, front end, tranny etc.

[jeff1hughes]

thank you Canada! Dave, I see you have an 'S' how does it compare to your old 944? I ask because one of the others that I'm looking at is a 86 944.

[Dave L]

for around town there will be very little difference as all the HP is at the top end of the rev range. I autoX so this is what I wanted and it suits my driving style. where the 944 8v just never seemed to "take off" the S comes alive at high RPM. For me it was a nice compromise between an 8v and a Turbo.

[jeff1hughes]

That sounds just like what I'm looking for. I'm used to the high RPM take off, 911s are definately that way. I was originally looking for a 944 that needed some work, but I stumbled across this 944S that seems like it should be in good shape, though if I go through with it, I am doing the timing/balance belts and water pump right away as the owner has no history as far as that goes. He just knows that it's had the clutch replaced.

[Brando]

I thought the S was SOHC, S2 was DOHC with cam chain & tensioner... Am I mistaken?

Big red flags would be the chain tensioner and belt service as mentioned. Including but not limited to:

Severly worn/destroyed rear wheel bearings.

Hackjob electrics (read: Aftermarket alarm, aftermarket overkill-stereo install).

Failing transmission (them sliders and gears are KA-CHING KA-CHING).

And/or poorly repaired severe chassis damage.

[mlue]

Originally posted by jeff1hughes
if I go through with it, I am doing the timing/balance belts and water pump right away as the owner has no history as far as that goes

Make sure you add the cam chain tesioner replacement to the right away list as Dave L suggested. There are upper and a lower tensioner pads that most people will replace but it is recommended that you replace the entire tensioner.

Here is the best right up that I've seen for the cam chain tensioner pad on the S models. They both have the same type of tensioners, you should be able to purchase these parts from our gracious host Pelican Parts.

http://boerger.golden-tech.com/images/cam_chain_tensioner_replacement.htm

Good Luck.

[Dave L]

the S is a 16V 2.5L 188HP, the S2 is 16V 3L 211HP.

the cam chain keeps the 2 cams in sych. the tensioner keeps the chain under tension. there is also a "J tube" oil feed that keeps things running smoothly. 4 ways to fail, the plastic guide on the tensioner can break causing the chain to catch on the metal tensioner, the hydralic of the tensioner can fail and will let the chain go slack, the oil tube can break causing it to dry out and the actual chain can break. Of these possibilities the most likely is that the plastic guide will break. A replacement pad can be purchased from Zims for $50. The whole service, replacement chain tensioner, J tube I have been quoted $900CDN. I have the pad and will be opening it up shortly to see what needs to be done.

If this hasnt been done or you dont want to do it (?) 16v heads are very very expensive or at the very least you will bend some of the 16 valves that IIRC are about $100 each.

For me, everyone always wants more power. For $900 (the cost of the full service) you get 40HP.

8v or 16v get the one in the best shape with the best maintenance records.

[jeff1hughes]

Keep us posted, I know in the land of 911s the hydraulic tensioners themselves never really go bad, we just replace the plastic chain ramps. The fact that it's just a hydraulic fed piston in there, I'm sure just replacing the pad is fine (probably why Porsche never specified a replacedment interval for the chain tensioner).

[theghosttanker]

I JUST replaced my cylinder head on my S after that tensioner failed. The damage to the head and cams was absolutely total; I had bent valves, ruined camshafts, and a broken cylinder head casting. I got VERY lucky in that I was able to buy a used complete head for less than 600 bux off e-bay but it took months to find one. The repair itself took me about six times as long as it takes me to do on a Datsun. There is no reason for replacement of the chain and tensioner shoes to cost anywhere near 900 bux. Replacing the shoes would only tahe a few minutes, replacing the chain would take longer since you would have to remove the camshafts. I see no reason to replace any other parts besides the shoes and chain; the j-tube is not even a moving part, and the tensioner assembly barely moves; I would inspect it for bends or cracks but I suspect breakage of it is usually caused when the shoes fail first.
It would take me about two hours to replace the chain and tensioner shoes. 900 bux is way out of line. If you want me to give you a set of directions so you can do the work yourself, let me know. If you aren't careful doing the cam removal, you can disrupt the camshaft timing, but if you are aware of the hazard it's easily avoided, and the work is pretty simple and straightforward.

[Dave L]

$900 is in canadian dollars and it included changing the tensioner, J tube and chain. All can and do fail, but this is the maximum assuming you replace everything. The route I am planning to take is to change the pad and check everything else. The 2 shops I have spoken to about this are Porsche shops will long histories in racing 911 and 944 series cars. One recommends doig everything and you know its done one reccomends inspecting and replacing parts as needed.