Clutch Bleeding

Taz's Master · 01-01-2005, 12:29 PM

I'm bleeding my clutch, and while I remember it being a pain, I don't remember it taking this much fluid. I've used more than a pint on the clutch alone, is that right, or am I doing something wrong? I had to quit because I ran out of brake fluid. (As an aside, I love the speed bleeders I got for Christmas, they are well worth the $12/pair, and anyone who bleeds their own brakes would love them.)

Also, my power steering rack is leaking from around the boots while at rest. What does this indicate, a rebuild? If it did STB, how difficult would swapping it out be?

Panzer909 · Panzer909's Garage

How much brake fluid depends on how efficient you are at keeping air out of the system. Last Fall, Eric951 and I must have went through two liters of fluid doing mine before I discovered the bleeder valve wasn't seated properly and was shooting air in as we struggled to get it out at the same time.

If you have the telltale ATF leaks near the boots then its a good chance that your steering rack itself is going south. The process to pull it is a bit time consuming but not that difficult. Its definitely a DIY job, fortunately. Check out www.griffiths.com for rebuilding yours.

Taz's Master · 01-01-2005, 05:34 PM

Thanks, maybe I'll invest in a speed bleeder for the clutch bleeder valve.

The rack kind of looks like it has indeed gone south, I have a parts car, and am considering rebuilding mine, or swapping mine for the parts car rack. I might look into filling the rack with grease like I remember reading about and eliminating the power steering.

In any case, Go Steelers!

IceShark · 01-02-2005, 07:07 AM

I'd think twice about a speed bleeder nipple for the clutch. The clutch nipple is pretty small so the wall thickness of the speed bleeder is pretty thin - thin enough to twist it in half fairly easy.

The problem with the clutch slave is the design of where the bleed nipple is located and as a result air is trapped at the top of the cylinder. A useful trick is to unbolt the slave and hold it vertical with the nipple up. Crack open the nipple and let the fluid and air run out until just clear fluid. Tighten back up and reinstall. Just be careful you don't squirt the slave piston out of the slave. This has worked everytime for me.

Taz's Master · 01-02-2005, 02:45 PM

I was using a homemade bleeding setup that utilized air pressure to force the fluid out. I think that my problem was having the front end jacked up, I was introducing air into the blue line. Lowering the front some and keeping the fluid extra full allowed me to bleed the clutch properly. The pedal seems a little soft (it always did), but it doesn't stay stuck to the floor, and I was able to drive the car. I will use your idea Iceshark (thanks) just to be sure it is bled properly.

944 Ecology · 01-03-2005, 04:46 AM

The other trick is to jack the *rear* of the car up to move the air bubble to the rear of the slave cylinder, where the bleed screw is located.

That and a Motive brake bleeder have worked wonders for getting it done the first time out...

gb

thoen · 03-21-2007, 05:00 PM

are the brake speed bleeders the same fit for the clutch slave?

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

All have the same size Zerk fitting. I've used Dan's (IceShark) method before I knew that Dan used it. I also loosen the slave feed line at the clutch master and bleed off the air in the master. Use the loosen, pump, tighten, release, repeat method. Keep the reservoir full. One of these days I'll buy the power bleeder.