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replace both the ground and the positive cable to the starter. Cheap fix. Had similar issues with on Oldsmobile and my current 924S, This fixed it.
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I think you're right.
I started to do a voltage drop test when the key is turned from segment to segment along the circuit to the starter and here are my results: From Starter Ground (mounting bolt) to Bat NEG: -4.5V From Battery NEG to Chassis Bolt Near Battery: -.04V From Battery NEG to Engine Crankcase Ground: -4.5V
I removed the non-factory modules from beneath to dash to eliminate them from the equation. They were some sort of alarm system. |
Going on the readings that a 5V drop isn't a good thing for a ground circuit, I decided to snag the Volkswagen's ground cable but was denied. Its battery terminals aren't the same size. But I had a thought.
Why can't I just jump the car to itself? The ground should follow the path of least resistance correct? That is, afterall, how a voltage drop test works. Hooking up a separate cable from battery ground to the engine should function as a new route for the circuit. And that's what I did. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1188589033.jpg And the car started! FOUR TIMES. It was a little sluggish, but each time, it did engage the starter and turn the engine over. I couldn't get the ground cable securely where I wanted to (on the clutch bell housing) so I reverted to the front of the engine on a lower bolt. At this point, I'm assuming my problems are being caused by the BATTERY-->ENGINEBLOCK ground cable. This unfortunately is part of the entire wiring harness. I need a replacement ASAP. What can I do? |
just get some heavy gauge wire and crimp connectors and roll your own. If you want to be real slick, get *brown* wire, cut the harness apart, replace existing wire with your new one, and rewrap the harness. Eastwood makes harness tape that is basically electrical tape with no adhesive. Et voila, problem solved. If the engine to chassis ground is bad that could also keep the battery from charging properly. sounds like you are on the road to solving your issue.
If the ground cables you are talking about are *really* heavy gauge, like full sized battery cables, there is a thread on here somewhere about replacing the whole cable assembly with marine terminals and universal battery cables. I think it may even be sold as a kit by arnworx? I would highly recommend doing this if that is your problem. good luck nate |
I have some used cables if that interests you Patrick.
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Of course you do :-P After all the parts I've bought from you, you should just ya know, give me a whole working car just to save me the trouble.
Let me see what I can do tonight in acquiring/making a new one. If it'll be a hassle, I'll PM you. |
I've got a few extras sitting around my shop. It probably would have been cheaper for you to buy a parts car with a blown motor or body damage from the start. Just my two cents. Good luck.
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It looks like our work on the cable tonight has allowed the car to start and alleviated the problem. I think I'll research replacing the cable or the eye loop at the end eventually. For now, we recrimped it and bolted it to the cam tower and the car starts. Hopefully, this was the problem all along.
Thanks for all the help, the suggestions, and the quick replies. :) |
I ran two ground cables on mine. One standard to the battery box contact point and another straight from the battery ground to the intake - lots of bolts there with little else to do but hold the intake.
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Did you do anything with the ground cables that were there? Did you make your own cable or buy a prebuilt one?
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For future thread readers, I bought new battery cables at Advance Auto. After a little bit of work, they were installed. I had to cut the old ones out. Car starts marvelously now.
Thanks everyone. |
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